Melancholy and smell of fried fish, charloteos and laughter: traits of an ever-surprising neighbourhood.

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Mazes of ruas and becos.

Lisbon's heart maybe lies in this labyrinthine neighbourhood that marvels the traveller with surprises around every corner: whitewashed chapels, baroque churches, very artistic graffiti. This is a city you should explore without haste or maps, which are not much help anyway since you will easily lose your way in its narrow and busy streets (especially recommended are the San Joao Ruas and Rua dos Remedios), awash with children playing, shopkeepers by the door of their small grocery stores, and grandmothers taking out their chair to chat in the street while watching the world go by and evoking the glorious past of this former capital of the Portuguese Empire. The smell of fried fish and that Portuguese melancholy pervades this neighbourhood that extends beneath the cathedral to open up to the sea, a destination shrouded in mystery awaiting the adventurous traveller.

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