Tourist guide: what to do and see in Nantes
Charm and Nature on the banks of the Loire
Nearly all the inhanitants of this city live less than 300 metres from a green space of some kind – which together with its efforts to promote a sustainable way of life earned Nantes the designation as Europe’s Green City 2013. Beyond this, the city which gave birth to Jules Verne still holds many secret (as well as not-so-secret) delights down its streets. Highlights include the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, a wonderful botanical garden and Japanese garden, a properly imposing cathedral, a plethora of impressive churches, and the Bouffay and Feydeau Island districts. Nantes also makes an especially fine jumpoff point for a tour of the famous châteaux of the Loire Valley.
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- Sights
- Shopping
- Leisure
- Dining
- Open air
- Museum
- Sights
- Shopping
- Leisure
- Dining
- Open air
- Museum
City Hall
Checking out the city's most iconic buildings.
Nantes' three-buiding administrative centre.
Known as the Hôtel de Ville, this architectural triangle formed by three Neoclassical buildings is the administrative heart of Nantes. Its construction and first political use date back to 1410, when Jean le Sage, Duke of Brittany, had the revolutionary idea of creating an "administrative council" to run the city, where the duke, nobility, bishop and bourgeoisie of Nantes would participate. At first they met in a weapons storehouse, though subsequently different spaces such as hospital offices and convents were offered to a wandering city hall that constantly changed venues. Today the Hôtel Derval, the Hôtel Monti Rezé and the Hôtel Rosmadec form a historic administrative triangle surrounded by green public spaces. The interior, however, is not open to the public.
Natural History Museum
Wide-ranging collections in geology, minerals, zoology, ethnology, anthropology, and more, housed in an imposing neoclassical edifice.
Established in 1810, it's considered one of Europe's foremost natural history museums.
According to historical records, the Natural History Museum of Nantes dates back to 1799, with the very first collection of city apothecary André François-René Dubuisson, whose goal was to instruct the young. It officially opened in 1810 and since then its collections of mineralogy and geology, paleontology (with more than 100,000 animals and 3,000 plant fossils), botany and zoology have not stopped growing. More than 200 years of history make it one of the leading museums of Europe, with thematic exhibitions expanding its wealth of knowledge, such as the recent hall dedicated to ethnography and anthropology, conferences, audiovisual materials and ongoing scientific research. Located in Rue Voltaire, the museum is open every day except Tuesday, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Maison Coiffard bookshop
With a section of international offerings, it's also just one of those classic booksellers that attracts travelling bibliophiles from all cultures.
A Nantes literary institution.
Lovers of literature appreciate the difference between chains and venerable independents, with old wooden shelves harbouring the best specimens. If you're a traveller who always puts bookshops on your itinerary, you should put this Nantes institution, on Rue de la Fosse just behind Fnac, on yours. The shop is subdivided into current and antique offerings, and naturellement most of it is in French, but there's also an international section.
Commodity Exchange Building/Fnac
Historic Palais de la Bourse now serves as a spot to browse French pop culture downtown.
Historic landmark now a landmark of cultural commerce.
The Palais de la Bourse, completed in the early 19th century, is a stolid landmark on the Place du Commerce, the city's nerve centre, its façade flanked by tall columns (somewhat rebuilt from its more original incarnation, but still impressive). Since 1996, it has been home to the local branch of France's Fnac chain, which specialises in movies, music, videogames, electronics, and reading material. So it makes a good place to simultaneously check out a significant historic landmark and get a good read on current French pop culture. Afterwards, indulge in a bit of peoplewatching right outside at a café on the square.
L'Escritoire Antiquités
This shop on Rue Jean Jaurès has some unique pieces, and whether or not your credit card is up to it, it's worth a visit for a time-machine-like experience.
Interested in antiques? This should be your first stop in Nantes.
If you're an antiques fan, L'Ecritoire Antiquités on Rue Jean Jaurès should be on your list as one of Nantes' outstanding shops, known especially among collectors for its candelabra, fireplaces, and other items from the 18th and 19th centuries, as well as a catalogue which is much more extensive. Even just browsing is a rewarding experience, a trip back in time through a mini museum including the likes (all certified) of Louis XVI chairs, delicate 19th-century Venetian crystal mirrors, impressive early 20th-century Art Nouveau chandeliers, an 18th-century Regency mahogany bureau, and more. They ship, of course.
Vincent Guerlais Chocolatier
The most prominent sweet shop in town turns chocolate and pastries into fashion - and if you have a sweet tooth, this is an absolute must.
Nantes' Willy Wonka meets Christian Dior.
One of France's chocolate legends has several local outlets, the original located on Rue Franklin not far from Passage Pommeraye. Vincent Guerlais' approach is to create "collections" of sweets as if they were fashion lines, changing according to season, and always exquisitely presented in delicate collection-worthy boxes. That locals as well as visitors have been known to wait in long lines for the privilege of buying these goodies tells you something. Said goodies include all imaginable manner of bonbons, biscuits, pastries, chocolate bars, chocolate-dipped fruit, macarons, cupcakes, cremes, and much more. And after you're home, it's gone, and you're bereft, you can always order more online.
Art Me
Small, affordable works by local artists put original mementos of Nantes within the reach of most any wallet.
A gallery where almost anyone can afford to buy.
After being exposed to all this culture here in Nantes, you might find yourself in the mood to collect something along the same lines yourself - thought not necessarily in the league of, say, an original Renoir. But this petite gallery, Art Me Boutique d'Art, on Rue de la Barillerie near Galleries Lafayette, organises exhibitions of rising artists in almost all disciplines, including painting, sculpture, graphic art, ceramics, engraving, and metalwork. Or for something even more affordable, you can buy artist-created postcards. Owner Brice Peter makes it a point to stock small-format art that can be stowed in your luggage, with prices starting at just 50 euros.
Rue Crébillon
Nantes' main shopping drag par excellence is such an institution that it's spawned its own verb locally.
"Crebillonning" in Nantes
Among the latest trends in Nantes: to invent a verb that defines shopping in the city's main commercial street. Rue Crébillon has spawned the verb 'crébillonner,' and that's precisely what hundreds of passersby strolling along the boulevard do every day. Some stroll with their hands full of shopping bags, others with hands in their pockets to avoid impulsive purchases. Whichever group you belong to, the 'Crébillon experience' is fabulous in any season, but winter in particular will surprise you with the spectacular window designs amidst an environment aglow with Christmas lights. Rue Crébillon connects Graslin Square with the Place Royale, and it's not far from the Pommeraye Passage, so this may be a good area to enjoy an afternoon of shopping for (naturally) top brands and designers.
Talensac Market
Another Nantes classic, where you can browse the stalls, rub shoulders with the locals, and harvest endless photo ops.
The city's most venerable covered food market.
If your thing is traditional shopping, do not miss the picturesque bustling stalls and shouting vendors of Talensac Market, located in Rue Talensac and open Tuesday to Sunday mornings only. It has both indoor and outdoor areas where you'll find almost anything you can imagine. The Talensac Market is the oldest and most charming in the city, frequented not only by tourists but also by locals who come to buy fish, meat and fresh vegetables. In addition to food, there are also stalls selling artisanal products, exotic flowers and plants, even a fashion outlet. If you are looking for vintage clothing or French tailoring, you will most likely find it in this market.
Passage Pommeraye
Come for the fabulous shopping - or just to take in the spectacular architecture. A classic Nantes sight, by day or night.
A classic 19th-century European covered shopping arcade, but with a spectacular twist.
Even if you have no intention of buying, you cannot leave Nantes without visiting the jewel in its shopping crown: the Pommeraye Passage in Rue de la Fosse, a shopping arcade dating back to 1843. Its unusual architecture has come down to us almost intact, with a spectacular entrance through ornate staircases on three levels that lead up to the shopping area, where the individual stores recall an Oriental bazaar with a modern twist. You will find primarily home decoration, furniture, design, perfume, jewelry and haute couture stores. The glass roof and exuberant décor of statues and columns make the historic Pommeraye Passage one of the classic sights of the city, with strategically placed lighting that makes it a beautiful place for an evening stroll.
Maison Lemaitre
Wine, cheese, teas, spices, honeys, and various other culinary delights for refined palates are on the menu, as gifts for folks back home - or souvenirs for yourself!
One of Nantes' top gourmet shops.
A top destination for foodies passing through Nantes, at the Maison Lemaitre, located in Rue de la Paix, you'll be able to buy all the gastronomic delights you can imagine, for yourself or for a fabulous gift. Its products — delicately bottled and presented in boxes worthy of a museum exhibit — hail from the surrounding regions as well as far-off lands, ranging from the wines and oils you've savoured in Nantes' restaurants, to a wide selection of teas and spices from all corners of the world. Exotic fruit juices, artisan jams and almond, acacia, heather or lemon honey are some of the delicacies that will tempt you in Maison Lemaitre, designed for you to take home edible memories. If you're hooked on cheese or French foie gras, this is definitely your place.
Galeries Lafayette
Whether for window shopping or retail therapy, this Rue de la Marne classic will entertain with its fabulous European brands and elegant, upbeat atmosphere.
Need a shopping fix? Here's a classic French department store to do it in.
Galleries Lafayette are a classic French shopping experience and a perfect excuse to max out your credit cards if you so choose. Located in Rue de la Marne and open Monday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Galleries Lafayette are a fab plan for a rainy day, offering hours of compulsive shopping or maybe just a stroll through its store displays and cafés , all without leaving this temple of luxury consumerism. Here you'll find the top trends and brands in fashion, accessories, jewelry, and shoes, and if you don't know where to begin, just go to the third floor and ask for the free 'personal shopper' who will accompany you throughout the store and advise on what fashion suits your style or how to do a makeover.
Maillé-Brezé Museum
Raised from the sea, this World War II ship now houses a naval museum in the city's port.
Nantes' naval ship museum.
Since the late 80s, France has had its first floating naval museum aboard the Maillé-Brezé, a French naval vessel hit and sunk during World War II. The Nantes Marine Tradition Association secured its designation as a historical monument and its recovery as a symbol of Nantes' naval tradition. After its rescue from the depths and subsequent restoration, the Maillé-Brezé became a gigantic ship museum ship floating next to the Quai de la Fosse. Open daily with free admission if you have the 'Nantes Pass' tourist card. A visit includes a guided tour inside the destroyer and its engine room, with explanations about life on board, weaponry, threat detection and defensive capabilities.
Le Lieu Unique
A mix of all sorts of artistic activities, performances, and exhibitions, with areas for kids and for relaxation - even a hammam.
Once a biscuit factory, now the National Centre of Contemporary Art.
The former Lu biscuit factory, known today as 'Le Lieu Unique' or 'The Unique Place,' has become an extraordinary cultural force, housing as it does the National Center of Contemporary Art in Nantes, where new expressions of visual art intermingle with innovative musical research, workshops, a laboratory of ideas and creations galore in the performing arts. The always avant-garde mix of genres and works make Le Lieu Unique the epicenter of contemporary art in all its forms since its opening in 2000 along the Canal Saint-Felix, with a clear mission to break boundaries between disciplines as well as between artists and the public. In addition, its impressive facilities include Lu Tower, which you can visit to admire the view of the city, as well as a children's play area, café, bookstore, and even a hammam, where you can relax after this immersion into art.
Frac des Pays de la Loire
The works of multidisciplinary artists brought together in various expositions.
Contemporary arts space.
The origin of the "Frac des Pays de la Loire" arts centre dates back to the 1980s, when so-called 'Regional Funds for Contemporary Art' (FRAC) were decentralised in France to promote international artist residencies and international exhibitions in other places beside Paris. Since 2000, this multidisciplinary space has occupied a building designed by Jean-Claude Pondevie in La Fleuriaye de Carquefou, Nantes, and is open Wednesday to Sunday in the afternoon. In addition to holding workshops and public lectures, you will find exhibitions of emerging and experimental artists that change throughout the year, in addition to 1,500 works of art from its permanent collection, created from the most innovative works of the last 30 years.
Museum of the Compagnons of Tour de France des Devoirs Réunis
Don't get confused with the Tour, this is a tour of French trades and specialties.
trades over time.
Behind the long name of the Musée des Compagnons de Tour de France des Devoirs Réunis hides an organization of medieval origin that has nothing to do with cycling, but with craftsmen and trades, which for centuries have maintained the tradition of teaching apprentices on a French tour of specialties. The Mansion Hautière, located at the top of the Sainte-Anne hill on rue Guillon Verne, houses this museum where ancient pieces and tools are recovered with which glass, metal, wood, iron and a whole succession of trades are worked dating back to the Middle Ages and keeping traditions alive. It is only open on Saturdays from 2:00 to 4:00 p.m., but it is worth visiting an organization that maintains its customs and transfers them from generation to generation.
Maison de L'Edre
A free-of-charge museum underscoring the importance of the environment in unparalleled surroundings.
A museum focusing on the Erdre, an estuary of the Loire.
Few European cities are as concerned about the environmental needs of their urban rivers as Nantes is for its Erdre, a tributary of the Loire, even going so far as to have an Association of Friends responsible for studying and analysing the flora and fauna of the riverbanks . At Maison de L'Erdre, located in the Japanese garden on the island of Versailles, there is a collection open to the public designed to raise awareness of the environmental wealth of this river and the peculiarities of the Nantes area, its native species and swamp microclimates. This local museum, closed only on Tuesdays and offering free admission, recently presented a photographic and audio-visual exhibition featuring their latest inventory of the Erdre's small inhabitants.
Jules Verne Museum
This is a recreation of Verne's childhood home rather than the original, with various memorabilia and multimedia exhibits contextualising his work.
Dedicated to the life and œuvre of this Nantes native son.
Although Jules Verne was born in Nantes, it was not at this impressive nineteenth-century hilltop mansion-museum dedicated to him in rue de l'Hermitage. He did not even live here, but today it serves as a tribute and recreation of his life, with beautiful panoramic views of the city that influenced his literature. Apparently, as a child the writer used to frequent the fishing port with its traders and whalers who recounted their adventures; he also traveled by boat and train, and immersed himself in the exotic species of the Botanical Garden, which would populate his imagination and his books. The museum attemps to recreate his house, with objects donated by his descendants, and to bring visitors closer to his work with detailed explanations that put each book in context, plus educational and audiovisual spaces.
Thomas-Dobrée Museum
A sumptuous collection of some 10,000 works of art and furnishings in an equally impressive villa.
One wealthy 19th-century merchant family's private collection.
The walls of the Thomas Dobrée Museum tell the story of a rich bohemian heir from an important French family of merchants and shippers of the mid-19th century, who decided to leave the family business to pursue what really moved him: his art collection, which includes more than 10,000 objects. In addition to collecting incunabula, ancient manuscripts, medals, coins, sculptures and even the reliquary with the heart of the very Duchess Anne of Brittany, Thomas Dobrée also ordered the construction of the palace which today houses the museum, in Rue Voltaire near the Castle of the Dukes. In recent years there has been a need for expansion and renovation of the museum-mansion, so you should call ahead to ensure that the works have been completed and that you may enjoy more than just its romantic gardens.
Museum of Fine Arts
Created by order of Napoleon Bonaparte, its collection includes the likes of Tintoretto, Rubens, Renoir, Chagall, and Kandinsky, along with cutting-edge contemporary figures.
European masterworks dating back to the 13th century.
According to historical records, the creation of the Museum of Fine Arts of Nantes was ordered by none other than Napoleon Bonaparte in the nineteenth century, although it was not until a century later when it settled permanently in the Palace of Arts in Rue Georges Clemenceau, where it subsequently expanded and was renovated in recent years. Its collection ranges from the thirteenth to the twentieth century, and not only paintings, prints and drawings, but also video installations and photography. Temporary exhibitions and exchanges with international museums renovate the museum every year, to the point where it has become a first-rate cultural centre in France. Aim to go early, as doors close at five in the afternoon.
Museum of the History of Nantes
The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany hosts seven halls filled with fascinating exhibits about the castle, the city and the region. Consider making this your first stop.
The must-see overview of local history, set in the massive local castle.
There is no better location than the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany to house the impressive Museum of the History of Nantes, where you can take a walk in time through the evolution of the city and region. If you start your trip at this museum, you'll be able to understand each corner you visit later thanks to seven exhibition halls packed with historical objects and furniture, as well as informative explanations thereof. The collection includes the history of the castle and its dukes, the importance of the Loire, its port activity, the slave trade and colonial commerce. You'll also learn about the Second World War, local resistance movements, political agreements and the future of the city. The museum is open Monday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. and admission costs eight euros.
Snail farm
How's this for something different? Get up close and personal with slimy mollusks, destined for the plate (garlic and butter not included).
Follow that escargot!
Believe it or not, one of the typical tours in the Loire Valley is a visit to a snail farm. At three euros a pop, the slimy mollusks are so profitable that the French have been exploiting this industry for centuries, indeed since the days of the Romans with their 'cochlearium' farms. In Le Croisic, an hour from Nantes, you'll find Espace Escargots in the Rue des Becs Salés. This farm offers a guided tour with video projections, a walk around the farm, and a visit to the tasting room, where you will learn all about raising snails, as well as their preparation for sale as a delicacy. Visits to this mollusk farm are only possible from April to September, so if you are in the area during this time and are looking for a very different excursion, the Espace Escargot will not disappoint.
Le Croisic
Spectacular scenery, excellent seafood, and family attractions are hallmarks of this onetime pirate haven a bit over an hour from Nantes.
Argh, a nearby coastal town with a pirate past will shiver your timbers.
An hour away from Nantes you'll find Le Croisic, a small coastal town with a big pirate past, perfect for a day trip and even more so if you are traveling with children. Apart from excellent seafood, its main attractions are the quiet coves lined with steep cliffs where lazy seagulls circle and squawk, and protected forests with trails for all levels of hikers. In addition to aquatic activities, the port of Le Croisic has an interesting oceanographic institute open to the public which can round off a full day of sightseeing. The Océarium, located in Avenue de Saint-Goustan, will delight young and old alike with its huge glass tunnel and fifty-four tanks harbouring 20 penguins, 25 sharks, and other aquatic fauna.
Muscadet Wine
Wine enthusiasts will want to check out one or more of the local Muscadet wineries and do some sampling.
Exploring the local wine appellation.
One of France's strengths is its many wine tourism options, so if you're passionate about good wine, you'll have a wide range of choices. Twenty-two kilometres from Nantes, you'll find the vineyards and wineries of the Forgeau-Muscadettement family, where a winemaking tradition dating back to 1918 has been handed down from generation to generation right on down to the present. Taking advantage of the oceanic climate of the Loire Valley, the family specialise in the Muscadet grape. A visit to their vineyard includes a guided tour of the entire process, from the vine to the wine glass, with explanations about all aspects of winemaking before you get to sample this young wine.
Saint-Nazaire
A small, charming fishing village right up the river on the coast you should definitely visit if you have the time.
A day trip to a coastal village.
If you want to trade the cosmopolitan bustle of the city for a more marine experience, don't miss the charming town of Saint-Nazaire, well- connected by train and bus and just an hour away from Nantes. The main attraction of Saint-Nazaire is its seaport and shipyards where luxury liners are built, but the town also offers hiking trails in the nearby park of Brière and salt flats of Guérande. At the submarine base in Saint-Nazaire — used by Hitler during the Second World War — you can visit the Escal'Atlantic, which explains what life is like on a luxury ship, as well as the secrets of its bridge and engine room, usually inaccessible to regular travelers. Moreover, the French submarine L'Espadon welcomes brave visitors who are not claustrophobic.
Les Stations Gourmandes summer programme
Urban public orchards and gardens for visiting and tasting.
Promoting picnics in the city.
If Nantes' municipal policy stands out for anything, it's for being light- years ahead of other countries in terms of eco-culture campaigns. Can you imagine lounging in the sun amongst fruit trees, right in the middle of the city? Having an urban picnic and eating juicy cherries straight from the tree, or grabbing a tomato for a delicious sandwich made on the spot? This is possible thanks to the Les Stations Gourmandes ('Gourmet Stations') programme, launched in the summer of 2012 and repeated in summers since. The goal is to create urban gardens that offer free public access, places where locals and tourists alike can participate in horticultural tasks and enjoy the literal fruit of their labours. You'll find these Stations Gourmandes in the vicinity of the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, Malakoff, Bellevue or Île de Nantes, among other locations around the city.
Carquefou
Take a green break from the city streets in the Carquefou district to the northeast.
Hiking routes through the local countryside.
The Carquefou district in the northeast of Nantes makes for a nice day trip to discover other sides of the city. It's the perfect destination for hikers and nature lovers, as 50% of the area is occupied by parks and green spaces. Carquefou has five marked routes, ranging from wetlands surrounding the Erdre river, to multi-adventure experiences riding through vineyards and villages on rented bicycles or horses. Another Carquefou attraction is Port-Jean, a marina surrounded by forests where you can enjoy kayaking, canoeing, windsurfing or a catamaran, though swimming is not allowed. Apart from seafood restaurants, you will also find numerous picnic areas just perfect for a meal surrounded by nature.
Loire River cruise.
A lovely way to soak up the charms of the area: on a slow cruise out to the coastal fishing village of Saint-Nazaire.
Cruising the Loire out to the Atlantic Ocean.
One of the essential outdoor tours in Nantes is the river cruise sailing 120 km. up the Loire River to the fishing village of Saint-Nazaire. Afternoon is the best time to board in order to enjoy the breathtaking sunset on the river, and watch the marshes and natural spaces melting into the industrial landscapes of the city on the horizon. In addition, the estuary offers a surprising route with 29 contemporary artworks scattered along the water and the coast (in some cases hidden inland), such as a disturbing metal snake by artist Huang Yong Ping, a house that seems to sink into the water, or a 7-metre pendulum in an old cement factory. The cruise offers a picnic and drink on board, plus explanations throughout the tour.
Fishing in the Loire River.
Enjoying the great outdoors with a fishing guide.
Angling to enjoy the Loire in a different way.
Fishing enthusiasts visiting Nantes can practice their favourite sport with an experienced local fisherman and guide, Captain Christophe Boulain, who will guide you through the waters of the Loire to the best fishing spots in tributaries and lagoons near the city. Organized by Loire Fishing Adventure, the tour is designed for all levels, from professionals who want to improve their technique to total beginners, even families with children who are thinking of getting a start in sport fishing. If you want to enjoy fighting catfish or waiting patiently for stealthy freshwater fish, you can do so from 85 euros per person for a half day, or 150 euros for a full day. Don't forget to bring warm clothes, lunch and drink as well as your fishing license, which is not included in the price of the activity.
Île Feydeau
"Feydeau Island" was in fact a onetime island, and still preserves a historic flavour of centuries past.
An elegant old quarter with an 18th-century flavour.
A visit to Feydeau Island is a trip back in time to the eighteenth century, where you can easily imagine prosperous traders and slavers building luxurious mansions with carved masks on the façades that glow in the light of the sun. What these wealthy merchants did not know was that the marshy ground would make their buildings lean almost imperceptibly, creating curious optical effects for the visitor. Luckily, architectural advancements have now stopped the buildings from sinking further. Facing the shipyards, Feydeau Island lost its status as an island in the early twentieth century when part of the Erdre was filled with soil, creating what today would be the Avenue Turenne and its landscaped promenade.
Jardin des Plantes de Nantes
A host of plants and trees, among them the tree once considered France's loveliest.
Nantes' municipal botanical garden.
One of the loveliest strolls in town, where you can breathe fresh air heavy with the fragrance of exotic plants, is the Garden of Nantes, which dates back to 1687 when local apothecaries created the first botanical garden in the city. During the following centuries it had the support of the French crown, which commanded sea captains to donate seeds and cuttings of exotic plants from the colonies. In its seven-plus hectares you will find over 11,000 species, including an amazing specimen of Magnolia grandiflora planted in 1807, at that time considered the most beautiful tree in all of France. With a meticulous landscaping that includes lakes, waterfalls, sculptures, artificial mountains and greenhouses, the Garden of Nantes is a perfect natural retreat to enjoy the more exotic charms of nature.
Chatenay - Butte Sainte Anne
Besides a lesson in local history, a monument to the workers' movement of a century ago provides some spectacular views.
Views of the city from on high.
The Nantes labour movement was once centred on the neighbourhood of Chatenay-la-Rouge, known as a hotbed of protests by the workers and sailors who toiled in the city's shipyards. A walk through the neighbourhood will transport you to the early 20th century, when it was still considered a 'free commune', with references in the streets to characters from the Revolution. You should climb St. Anne's Hill, on top of which you'll find a statue of the saint blessing the sea and sailors since 1871. You can also visit the Church of St. Anne, dating from the 19th century. To get there, you have to climb a whopping 121 stairs from the Aiguillon Quai, but certainly the view over the Loire River and the city make it worthwhile.
Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery
On the banks of the Loire, a modern remembrance of a terrible institution paired with a pretty stroll and opportunity for meditation.
Dramatic monument, lovely setting.
One of the most enriching and surprising walks in the city will take you along the docks of the Loire, where more than 7,000 square metres of vegetation and 2,000 glass plates form the Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery. Created in 1998 by artist Krzysztof Wodiczko and architect Julian Bonder, this open-air structure leads into the depths of an underground passage, drawing attention to the slave past of the city with the names and dates of the ships that departed for Africa, the Americas and the Indian Ocean to smuggle humans. Along this historic stroll you will see glass plates bearing the Declaration of Human Rights and various texts, poems, testimonies, laws and abolitionist documents from the 17th century to the present.
La Récré
An unpretentious atmosphere and classic, homestyle dishes have tuned this relative newcomer into a local hit. Visitors find it appealing, too - come find out why.
Simple, classic French food.
With a nostalgic style defined by wooden tables and red and white checkered table cloths, La Récré opened in 2013 in the Champs de Mars neighbourhood like a small corner of the typical French person's childhood memories - chalkboard menus and baskets included - along with Duralex drinking glasses and comics on the shelves. In a few months has managed to become the trendy restaurant, a place to savour traditional food whilst enjoying an "eco meal" with no saturated fats that's just perfect for a family outing. At La Récré you'll find simple dishes and traditional recipes such as ham and melon salad, grilled meat cooked in a wood oven, grilled salmon marinated with curry, or duck with herbs. Don't forget to try the desserts, ranging from vanilla panna cotta with apricot nectar to the great black chocolate cake.
La Grillade
An elegant farm-to-table steakhouse highly recommended for discriminating meat-lovers.
Fire up the grill, this is definitely a spot for carnivores.
Word of mouth has made this recently opened steakhouse a destination for locals and tourists who love good meat. Discreet and elegant, with a small sidewalk terrace, La Grillade is located in Rue Beauregard. Regulars rave about the the excellent value for dishes that will linger in your memory, as the owner is committed to a "farm-to-table" philosophy and works with local farmers. Try the popular toast with homemade tapenade (black olive cream, anchovies, egg and mustard), grilled vegetables, grilled meat, and burgers served with crispy potatoes and three sauces: blue cheese, barbecue and pepper. When you're hungry, 'The Grilling' is the place for you.
Dubrown Burger
A jaw-popping gourmet take on the humble hamburger, and more.
No just any old burger joint.
After a morning of sightseeing, you may want to get your strength back with a super burger that just might dislocate your jaw, accompanied by the best artisan bread, fresh-cut chips and fresh coleslaw. No fast food here, at Dubrown Burger in Rue Saint-Leonard you will find a gourmet take on this American speciality at an average price of 11 euros a burger. Experienced regulars recommend that you arrive early, as they don't take reservations and it can be difficult to get a table. If you succeed: a fab dining experience is all but guaranteed, amidst exposed stone walls and wood reminiscent of a rustic country house, with good music and wifi, even. A tip for foodies: don't forget to try their acclaimed American desserts, such as cheesecake and brownies.
L'Atelier des Terroirs
Half gourmet shop, half restaurant, it specialises in products and cuisine of France's southwest, including its Basque country, and spilling over the border into Spain.
An excellent French/Basque/Spanish menu.
Spaniards in Nantes nostalgic for their homeland head for L'Atelier des Terroirs in Rue Félibien, a Basque restaurant. Regardless of where you're from, this is the place to enjoy a good Iberian ham, sausage or cheese, as well as all manner of delicious dishes. You can also buy their deli products, carefully packaged like delicate rustic pieces. Apart from selling exclusive cheeses, foie gras, fine wines and baskets of local products, L'Atelier also offers traditional recipes in jars, so you can pack your 'cabbage soup with duck confit', 'beef stew flambéed with Armagnac' or 'lamb with bacon and beans with herbs', to enjoy again when you're back home or to surprise your foodie friends upon your return.
La Tavola
For a break from French cuisine, Italian always hits the spot, and La Tavola mixes Italian classics with lovely Sicilian soul food.
For a tasty side trip to Sicily, pull up a chair at "The Table".
If after several days in Nantes you'd like a break from French cuisine, head for La Tavola, an exquisite Italian restaurant in Rue de Richebourg, near the train station. It is not just the classic pizza and pasta, but a real immersion in traditional Sicilian cooking amid a veritable explosion of flavours. First-time customers always repeat, and even more so the locals, so that your visit is a must. The exotic dishes range from anti-pasti to desserts, from sardines 'beccafico' style, a Sicilian recipe, to the 'pollo ripieno' (chicken stuffed with pork, mortadella, ham and various types of cheese), to pineapple carpaccio with strawberry sorbet or delicious panna cotta.
Le Brasilien
A Brazilian-style buffet which specialises in pizzas, afffordability, and quickness.
Fast and flavourful, with a Latin touch.
A new take on the typical Brazilian 'rodizio' buffet style of eating defines Nantes' Le Brasilien restaurant on Rue Beauregard. Its specialty pizzas are perfect for a hungry day on a budget, with a selection of more than 15 different varieties to choose from (including amazing sweet pizzas!), all between 10 and 16 euros. Le Brasilien infuses the Nantes night with a breath of Caribbean air, with a menu of cocktails and specialty caipirinhas, warm décor and a terrace that invites you to dine under the stars. And if you want to accompany the pizzas with some greenery, there is a wide selection of salads and homemade desserts that will delight you, such as an exotic fruit salad, cheesecake or chocolate mousse.
L'Instinct Gourmand Restaurant
A bistro whose dishes are aesthetically worthy of a museum and whose flavours will indeed satiate your 'gourmand instinct', at affordable prices.
Haute cuisine at not so haute prices.
For a true immersion into French cuisine, don't miss L'Instinct Gourmand restaurant on Rue Saint Leonard, whose dishes look like something out of a museum, painted with colourful sauces and ingredients. This self-proclaimed "bistro without labels" offers haute cuisine at reasonable prices with a perfect pairing of wine, mostly French. It's a good idea to book in advance because its small space and growing reputation make it a popular place for lunch and dinner. It's also a good idea to not go when you're hungry, as portions are what you'd expect in this type of establishment where the key is to enjoy the flavours. Signature dishes and handcrafted warmth abound in this restaurant where every day can bring new surprises on the menu hand-written on the chalk board.
Le Break Café
This popular sidewalk café with delicious food at good prices makes a superb place to spend part of a fair-weather evening.
A streetside people-watching perch.
With a cosmopolitan and casual air, including a streetside café where you can nurse a drink as you watch the world go by in the heart of Nantes, Le Break is a perfect choice for an evening on the town. In a short time since opening in 2012, owner Bruno Teboul, late of a gourmet restaurant in The Hague, has made Le Break a local institution which combines culinary delights such as fish in all their many variations with reasonable closed. It offers set menus to suit all pockets, ranging from 13 euros for a single dish to 20 euros for starter, main course and dessert. Highly recommended: the foie gras with fig chutney or 'Saint Jacques salmon tartare with herbs'.
Teranga Restaurant
Try something different by sampling the cuisine of France's onetime African colony Senegal. C'est éxotique and très tasty!
Senegalese, if you please.
For open-minded foodies with a taste for the exquisite, this Senegalese restaurant in Nantes will surprise you: Teranga, open Tuesday to Sunday in Paul Bellamy Street. It's a small place with an outdoor terrace, so do arrive early to get a good place. The tribal decoration with wooden tables and stools, elephant-patterned fabrics and soft lighting make Teranga a cosy restaurant for daring customers to explore new flavours and African recipes on the order of 'aloco' (fried banana with tomato and onion) or 'mafé' (beef or chicken with peanut sauce, served with cabbage, carrots and sweet potatoes). Salads and exotic fruit juices — which can become cocktails — are two more reasons that make Teranga well worth a visit.
Restaurant Le Bouchon
A bucolic garden setting, minimalist décor, and creative modern French cuisine will make dinner here a memorable one.
For an exquisite French repast indeed.
If you want to surprise your partner with a romantic dinner, or maybe just treat yourself to a gastronomic feast in a charming environment, Le Bouchon restaurant on Rue Bossuet will fulfill all your expectations. At first glance you can't imagine that the façade of red gates and stonework hides a secluded woodland garden inside, perfect for warm days. The subdued lighting and minimalist décor make the restaurant an extension of your home. And more important: excellent wine at affordable prices (10 to 30 euros) and signature dishes exquisitely presented, such of as loin of lamb crusted with spices on a bed of rosemary potatoes fondant or parmesan-crusted cod.
La Cloche Revue Cabaret
Carrying on (and somewhat updating) the French cabaret tradition of the 19th century, La Cloche will ring your bell for sure.
Come to the cabaret, old chum - this is the real deal, mixing the old-timey with the cutting-edge.
For a night of zany humor, performance and cocktails, try La Cloche Revue Cabaret, which refers to an 'artistic and literary society' founded in 1895 characterised by a bell announcing each new act on the stage of its cafe-concert hall. Today, the shows still surprise audiences with their colourful entertainment combining burlesque skits, drag queens, glitter, humour, musical numbers and lots of Champagne. The winter season runs from late in the year until February, with tickets costing 30 euros and up for a show that lasts three hours with intermission. The company features more than 20 dancers on the 200 square-metre stage accompanied by a live orchestra. If you want to enjoy a very different kind of evening out on the town, La Cloche Revue Cabaret will doubtless surprise you.
Opera-Theater Graslin
Stunning interiors and exteriors, restored after a fire, for a night at the theater.
First neoclassical theater in the city.
The Graslin theater, which you will find in the square of the same name, was a project of the businessman Jean-Louis Joseph Graslin, who took advantage of the purchase of some land next to the river to build the first Italian-style theater in Nantes, inaugurated in 1788. The work was commissioned to the architect Mathurin Crucy, who was inspired by the great neoclassical theatres, with a monumental staircase topped with Corinthian columns sculpted with muses. Although it suffered a terrible fire in 1796, the restoration recovered its original form. The Italian-style interior space will also dazzle the viewer, with its blue velvet seats decorated in gold leaf that lead the eye to the impressive fresco on the ceiling, commissioned at the end of the 19th century from the artist Hippolyte Berteaux. The repertoire that you will see at the Graslin Theater ranges from pure and traditional lyrical shows to new contemporary productions.
Cordemais Power Plant
Visitors will get a real charge out of this historic facility, upgraded with the latest tech and offering quite interesting guided tours and displays for the public.
Not just your average power plant.
It was the first power plant in France and today remains one of the largest producers of electricity in the country, with 140 hectares equipped with the latest technologies. The Cordemais Power Plant can be a scenic visit, especially if you are interested in science or you're traveling with kids and want to enjoy a very different kind of sightseeing for a day. The Public Information Centre offers guided tours explaining the operation of the plant, as well as workshops and crafts on the principles of electricity explained in a simple and fun way for the little ones. Scale models of the facilities and informative displays that explain the history of energy, environmental awareness, the future of renewable energy, and a cross-section of hydro-, thermal and nuclear energy sources, are but some of the draws of this power plant.
La Fabrique (The Factory)
An extraordinary work of modern architecture and centre for music and multimedia.
A multidisciplinary arts centre on the Isle of Nantes.
Next to the old shipyards and the Dubigeon warehouse on the Isle of Nantes, you'll find La Fabrique, an imposing architectural project designed by the firm of Tetrarc Architectes, at the corner of Leon Bureau Boulevard and Prairie aux Ducs. In addition to its extraordinary design and gardens, which in and of themselves merit a visit, the Fabrique is a multidisciplinary centre oriented toward contemporary music and other artistic expressions; truly, a greenhouse for young emerging artists who conduct workshops, record demos, exchange knowledge and ultimately never stop creating. La Fabrique also has a delightful bohemian café and terrace for sunny days, 16 recording studios for music projects and two concert halls with a seating capacity for 2,000 spectators, equipped with the latest multimedia technologies, thus becoming the new epicentre of musical creation in Nantes.
Terrain Neutre Theatre
With plenty of musical, dance, and other visual performances that don't require French to appreciate, this is an excellent option for those interested in culture.
The city's top alternative performance space.
The powerful French alternative theatre movement led in 1998 to the creation of Terrain Neutre Theatre ("No-Man's Land")), forged from the outset by actors to serve as a laboratory of ideas, meeting space and showcase for emerging artists. Since then, and since going "pro" in 2006, more than 500 performances and 22,000 spectators pass annually through their space. If you are interested in the performing arts, don't miss this theatre, located on the rue Maison Rouge in the city center near the Hôtel Dieu. Programming includes 'poetry battles', comedy and children's shows, dramatised concerts, puppet shows for adults, world dance or polyphonic music, in short, a true melting pot of artistic currents that will open your eyes to new perspectives. Prices vary according to the show, ranging from seven to fifteen euros.
Marine Worlds Carrousel
Part of the Isle of Nantes, this giant three-level carrousel is an amazing work of Verne-inspired fantasy you have to experience to believe.
An elaborate merry-go-round evoking the world beneath the waves.
If you travel with kids (or want to feel like one of them), don't miss the amazing Marine Worlds Carousel opened in 2012 at the Parc des Chantiers on the Isle of Nantes. This is a monumental three-story carousel, 25 metres high and 22 metres in diameter, inhabited by mythological creatures of the deep sea, almost as if Jules Verne himself had designed the attraction. The carousel, designed by the Compagnie La Machine artists' collective (co-authors of "Les Machines de l'Île"), opens in the afternoon and costs 8 euros. Expect a fantasy world on three levels, from the boats on the surface all the way down to the sea creatures of the deep. 'The Grey Heron Tree', another mechanical spectacle that combines dreams, imagination and art, is slated to open in 2018.
Machines of the Isle of Nantes
A marvellous family-friendly set of attractions with a steampunk feel has become a beloved Nantes favourite.
An art fantasy evoking Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci.
Can you imagine walking along the banks of the Loire and coming upon a giant metal elephant? Would you dare to climb on its back? This unusual bit of business is one of the city's main attractions, amazing children and adults alike. Designed by local artists with a knack for mechanics, it's part of the collection of Les Machines de l'Île, located in Les Chantiers and open every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Inspired by the creations and worlds of Jules Verne or Leonardo Da Vinci, this retro-futuristic project built in Nantes' old shipyards offers 12 of these macro-mechanical sculptures that recall Verne's '20,000 Leagues Under the Sea' with imaginary animals turned into works of art.
Isle of Nantes and HAB Galerie
A redeveloped industrial zone that's now a chic, arty area with lots to see and do.
A groundbreaking contemporary arts project.
The Isle of Nantes is one of the most charming corners of the city, a clear example of how Urbanism is able to turn what was once a pasture and later industrial centre, into a small bohemian oasis with many recreational offerings that would take you a full day to enjoy. The so-called Hangar 21, which in its day was called the 'Banana Hangar' due to the vegetables and exotic fruits it received from Africa, today houses one of Nantes' most chic spaces: the HAB Contemporary Art Gallery. In its 1,400 square metres, you can not only enjoy exhibitions, but also a delightful café overlooking the river, as well as a library belonging to the Museum of Fine Arts and a specialised art bookshop.
Villa Cheminée
The 'Chimney Villa' is a sight to behold - an art installation consisting of a smokestack crowned with a house.
Perhaps the city's oddest new landmark.
Since the 2009 Estuaire festival, Nantes has another architectural monument that stands out for its creative paradox: Villa-Cheminée, which is the work of Japanese conceptual artist Tatzu Nishi. It is a 15-metre red and white tower that mimics the nearby thermal power plant at Cordemais. On top of this "smokestack" sits a small country-style house surrounded by a tiny garden, leading to the inevitable question: why is there a house on top of the smokestack? The answer is Taztu Nishi's conceptual art, influenced perhaps by the imaginary worlds of Jules Vernes, whom the artist admires. The house can be rented for an overnight stay, while the general public may visit the garden, though only on Sunday afternoons — although the most spectacular view is of course that of the house sitting on the smokestack, as seen from below.
Les Anneaux (The Rings)
A stroll on the Isle of Nantes is a must, and seeing these magical rings makes it even more so.
Awesome views, especially at night.
The so-called 'architect of lines', Daniel Buren, has left his mark on the landscape of Nantes with the project known as 'The Rings' (les Anneaux) on the Isle of Nantes. Just as he did in the 1980s with his sculpture 'Les Deux Plateaux', which broke with the classical courtyard of Paris' Palais Royal, he manages once again to both astonish and surprise. 'Buren's Rings', a project in collaboration with Patrick Bouchain at Quai des Antilles, create a unique and colourful sight that is illuminated at night and plays with the eye of the beholder. The 18 concentric and gigantic green, blue and red rings appear to form an imaginary tunnel that is reflected in the water; without a doubt, one of the city's most photographed images.
Monument to the 50 Hostages
Honouring martyrs to the fight against the Nazi occupation.
Remembering a key local event of World War II.
A reminder of a bloody moment in the city's history, the Monument of the 50 hostages recalls an episode which illustrates the valour of the French Resistance against the Nazi occupation. The trigger was the assassination of "Feldkommandant" Karl Hotz, whose job was to control the region of Nantes, and who was attacked and killed by a communist commando in the cathedral square. As a result, a furious Hitler ordered a search for the resistance fighters, offering up to 15 million francs for their heads, and then warned that if they did not appear, he would order the killing of 50 French hostages. That only served to reaffirm and strengthen the anti-Nazi resistance, and the attackers did not appear. The Monument to the 50 hostages, designed by Jean Mazuet, serves as a tribute to the French Resistance.
Church of the Holy Cross
With a checkered past that includes a stint as a prison during the French Revolution, as well as some unusual features, this church is well worth a visit.
A church with a long and interesting history.
The wealthy diocese of Nantes counts among its treasures a monumental example of Jesuit architecture, the Church of the Holy Cross, located in the eponymous square in the picturesque Bouffay quarter. Its current appearance, featuring an unusual bell tower capped by a polygonal lantern guarded by trumpeting angels, dates from the seventeenth century, although the first parish church was built on this site in 1138. This church is also home to the birth records of Jules Verne, dated February 8, 1828. There are those who say that the church has not had much luck in its history: first it was the chapel of a long-gone palace, and during the Terror of the French Revolution, it served as a prison where detainees were held.
St. Peter's Gate
It's not all that much to look at today, but this gate was once a key part of Nantes' defenses.
The remains of a section of ancient city wall.
Close to Marshal Foch Square in the center of town behind the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, you will find an unusual monument that immortalizes Nantes' Gallo-Roman past. The Gate of St. Peter may seem to be a mass of disjointed stone set amongst streets teeming with traffic, but this is due to the fact that it was built as part of the great defensive city wall. Built in the fifteenth century, the Gate of St. Peter housed the bishop's residence on top. There are no remnants of the drawbridge, as modern city planning made it necessary to tear part of the monument down to open access to the Plaza Royale. However, its stunning architecture remains an attraction for tourists and is an iconic image of the city.
The castle of the Dukes of Bretagne.
On the castle route, don't miss this one.
Loire castles
Surely you have heard of the legendary châteaux of the Loire Valley, a tour through France's medieval past. Your visit to Nantes brings you to one of these fortresses, the Castle of the Dukes of Brittany. It dates back to the thirteenth century, when the family of the Dukes of Brittany ordered that this palace be built. Of the original structure, only the 'Old Tower' remains, growing in size and grandeur over the following centuries, thereby demonstrating the power of Brittany against the French crown. After serving as a royal residence, the castle was also used as a prison, military barracks, and even a Nazi bunker during World War II. It is now open to the public and contains the new Museum of the History of Nantes, noted for its spectacular nocturnal lighting.
Our Lady of Bon Port
One of the the city's absolute musts, both inside and out.
Inspired by the dome of St. Peter.
As if the surrounding buildings were squeezing it out into the river, the church of Notre-Dame de Bon Port — also known by locals as the Church of St. Louis, offers a truly lovely view from the other shore, on the typical Fose Quai, icon of Nantes. The Greek cross-shaped church, located at Place du Sanitat, was inaugurated in 1858 and rises 38 metres above the ground. Its dome was inspired by the Basilica of St. Peter in Rome, but if you think the exterior is impressive, you'll be even more surprised by the interior, with an 1860 mural painting by Le Henaff depicting humankind from Creation to the Final Judgment. Delicate stained glass, more murals, sculptures and an ancient nineteenth-century organ complete the picture.
Place Royale and Place Graslin
Some typical snapshots of the city no tourist should fail to take.
A triangle to explore.
A tour of the city will take you along this urban triangle formed by the Place Royale and Place Graslin, both designed in the eighteenth century with the idea of enhancing the façades of the surrounding palaces of the bourgeoisie. The Place Graslin, created by the architect Mathurin Crucy, is of special interest, as the Graslin Theatre and the iconic La Cigale brasserie both epitomise the Art Nouveau of Nantes, the leading artistic and bohemian movement in the city during the nineteenth century. Moreover, in the heart of the Place Royale you'll find the blue-granite fountain where tourists often pose for pictures with allegorical figures representing the Loire River and its tributaries, as well as, not surprisingly, Neptune's trident.
Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul
A good place to start your visit, an architecturally spectacular cathedral.
The pinnacle of Gothic architecture.
Over 400 years were required to complete one of the most iconic monuments of Nantes, which was completed in 1834 and is a true architectural spectacle. The Cathedral of Saints Peter and St. Paul sits proudly on the remains of an ancient Romanesque church, of which only the foundations and chapel remain, as the Gothic edifice imposed itself thereupon with impressive façades guarded by two towers, vaults, stained glass windows and snowy limestone buttresses—and even an unusual exterior pulpit designed for outdoor sermons. Inside you'll find a Romanesque crypt with chalices and censers, final resting place for the remains of important ecclesiastical figures. Do seek out the discrete Carrara marble sarcophagi containing the mortal remains of the Dukes of Brittany Francis II and his wife Marguerite de Foix.
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