Tourist guide: what to do and see in Melilla
In an off-the-beaten-path gem, an homage to ‘Modernista’ architecture
Few cities end up surprising visitors as much as Melilla – the fascinating mix of its people, its streets, its old town, citadel, and city wall, as well as the most Modernista architecture outside of Barcelona. Exploring here is also an exploration of the four faith cultures that make up the city’s fabric: the Christian, Muslim, Jewish, and Hindu, and you could say it’s something like a “Spanish Constantinople” thanks to its unique position as a gateway to two continents. Furthermore, it’s ready to show you a warm and wonderful time any time of year, thanks to an average year-round temperature of 18º Celsius (64ºF), and feed you with a rich cuisine all its own that’s a blend of Spanish, North African, and other Mediterranean influences. A tasty dish, indeed!
- Sights
- Shopping
- Leisure
- Dining
- Open air
- Museum
- Sights
- Shopping
- Leisure
- Dining
- Open air
- Museum
Hernández Park
Peace, fountains, flora…this is the favourite park of Melilla locals, where they come to disconnect and recharge on weekends.
The city's green lungs.
If you find yourself in the Plaza de España, you'll see the grandiose entrance to Hernández Park, the perfect local escape from the commotion of the big city - or just have a rest or a read on one of its benches. This park is without a doubt the city's lungs and green oasis, to which locals flock especially on weekends to enjoy its fresh, verdant spaces and fountains. There's architecture in here, too, and being Melilla, naturally it's Modernista, with colourful tiles and undulating forms. A number of statues are also worth mentioning, such as the one to 20th-century nature TV personality Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente and a bust of the great 17th-century playwright Lope de Vega. The park was inaugurated in May 1902 at the initiative of its namesake, General Venancio Hernández, who is commemorated with a simple lamppost.
day with children at the Gloria Fuertes Farm School
Fun and educational place to spend the day with the little ones in the house.
A great idea for the little ones.
If you are looking for an educational and fun place to spend a different day with the little ones, the Gloria Fuertes Farm School is undoubtedly an extraordinary option. It is also an interesting way to get closer to Nature, thanks to the multitude of fauna and flora that its facilities house. Guided tours are held at the school -the most common is that they receive students from all the schools in Melilla, but anyone can come for a walk from Monday to Friday- to learn about the characteristics of each species and each plant. The bird hatchery is very interesting, where you can see how the workers help the birds to incubate their eggs and start to fly. Among the most interesting animals for children are raccoons, donkeys, goats and sheep. La Granja Escuela is located next to the Forest Park, on Calle Prolongación Mustafa Arruf.
Visiting the city of Al Hoceima
Some 175 kilometres (109 miles) west of Melilla is another Moroccan city that was once Spanish. Its beaches are especially noteworthy.
Get to know an interesting neighbouring Moroccan city.
If you can spare at least two days, Al Hoceima is a fetching Moroccan city some 175 kilometres (109 miles) west of Melilla, once part of the local Spanish protectorate (there are still some locals who speak Spanish to this day); it's the birthplace of Moroccan hero Adb el-Krim, whose guerrilla forces battled and even defeated the Spanish in the 1920s. Around the city are splendid beaches such as Quemado, and you can also get a look at a couple of rock fortresses still administered by Spain, such as the Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera and the Peñón de Alhucemas, or visit the lovely landscapes of the Al Hoceima National Park, an ecologically invaluable refuge for various bird species.
Out into the Rif on a 4x4
A chance to explore some spectacular scenery around Melilla - and get the adrenaline pumping, too!
Some serious desert adventure.
Various travel agencies and tour operators offer excursions outside Melilla, especially to the area known as the Rif, which blends wild, dry landscapes with lovely castaway beaches. Many of these tours, always on ATV's, include Mount Gurugú; the immense dunes on Bocana Beach; and visits to the famous, long-abandoned iron mines of the Rif, and to the John Hope, an immense cargo ship which ran aground in the area decades ago and is still caught erect between the coastal rocks as if it had just happened yesterday - an unexpected visitor in a place where everything else is rocks, sea, and sparse vegetation. You can check various touring and ATV rental options at www.venpormelilla.es.
The Príncipe and Concepción Arenal neighbourhoods
After Barcelona, Melilla has the most Modernista architecture of any Spanish city, and these neighbourhoods are a perfect example.
Modernism rules!
These two neighbourhoods are an integral part of Modernista Melilla, and walking their streets will make amply clear that outside of Barcelona, nowhere else in Spain has more Modernista architecture than this city - literally dozens of examples on just a few streets. To cite just a few: the old Red Cross headquarters or the curious building known as the Milkdrop, located in the Centro Asistencial social services centre. On Calle Aizpuru you'll find another construction with a look out supported by small elephant heads, while if you head left on Calle Querol you'll get a good view of the city bullring, and continuing onward to Plaza de Velázquez, you'll spot a series of buildings of so-called "aerodynamic architecture," characterised especially by an abundance of horizontal and vertical straight lines.
Excursion to Ras El Ma
A Moroccan coastal town with gorgeous beaches and friendly people.
"Cape of Water"
Known in Spanish as Cabo de Agua (which translates into English as "Cape of Water"), Ras el Ma is a Moroccan coastal town of just 5,000 souls, famous for its beaches of fine golden sand, its diving rocks, and the friendliness of its people, who regularly welcome visitors from Melilla and elsewhere, especially on weekends. Accommodations are available in town, such as the Alberge Cap de L'Eau, and there are various eateries specialising in freshly-caught seafood. If you're looking for a more full-service hotel-and-resort zone, some 20 kilometres (12 miles) out of town you'll find the immense, luxurious Mediterrania Saidia complex which should fit the bill perfectly, with various properties, a medina with more than 40 businesses, and a selection of golf courses.
A stroll through the Zona del Real
A gridlike neighbourhood with a Modernista flavour and iconic buildings like the Mercado Real.
A walk through "the Real"
The Barrio del Real is a planned neighbourhood in the form of a grid similar to those that were built in other Spanish cities during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Its early denizens were of modest means, but even so, the architecture here shows the stylish touches of the Modernismo the city is known for. Particularly notable buildings include the Mercado del Real marketplace, designed by Enrique Nieto, and the onetime Cine Español (Spanish Cinema), now retired from the movie business. Not far from there, taking the street toward the Beni Enzar border, you'll find the Officers' Residence of the Melilla Land Army, designed in neo-Plateresque style by Mariano del Pozo in 1944.
The Reina Regente neighbourhood
A mosque, a small fort, and some smashing views. Not a touristic area, but a highly recommendable one!
In the suburbs of Melilla.
Up in the most elevated part of the city, a suburban area called Reina Regente, you'll find a hill of the same name, where there's an interesting mosque with a striking minaret. It's not touristy in the slightest, but if you have any time to spare, it's worth a visit, as from up here you are rewarded with wonderful views over all of Melilla and surrounding areas. You'll also find Reina Regente Fort, built in 1894-95 to form part of the city's defense perimeter. It's a modest octagonal structure with two storeys, but not open to the public, as it is still in active use by the Spanish armed forces.
Beaches
Three good choices - San Lorenzo, Los Cortados, or La Hípica.
A dose of sun, sea, and sand.
The coast all around Melilla offers some splendid, powdery white beaches. One of the three top choices is Playa de San Lorenzo, between the docks and the Río de Oro, which then becomes Playa de los Cárabos along Paseo Marítimo Mir Berlanga. Two others which are definitely worthwhile are Playa de la Hípica, where you can also rent watercraft, and Playa de los Cortados. Whichever you choose, you'll find that in Melilla, families will spend the entire day at the beach, and even till as late as 8pm, taking a picnic supper and enjoying the sea during the most pleasant hours leading up till sunset. Keep that in mind!
An excursion up Mount Gurugú
Mount Gurugú certainly impresses - and there's even a troop of monkeys to visit up here!
A thousand metres up!
Right near the sea, this impressive peak reaching 1,000 metres (3,280 feet) at its highest elevations is divided into two by a huge rift called the Barranco del Lobo (Wolf's Ravine). Nature lovers and active types flock here to enjoy the views, explore its Roman ruins, and try to spot the small troop of macaque monkeys that lives up here. Organised tours are available from companies or organisations such as Club Escorpio, a group formed by adventure sports enthusiasts; alternatively, you may hire a vehicle and drive yourself, but in that case it is recommended that you bring someone who knows the area.
Rostrogordo Pine Forest
An enormous pine forest offers an outdoorsy respite from the city.
A peaceful escape to the great outdoors.
If you'd like a break from the city and beaches, do what the locals do and head for this peaceful woods, where you can stroll, have a barbecue, and enjoy lovely views over the Mediterranean coast. This is also the site of the extraordinary annual Romería del Rocío (El Rocío Pilgrimage), in which 20 decorated carriages and various multitudes participate in a procession modeled after the reknowned event of the same name in Huelva. Here in the pine woods you'll find Melilla's only campground, also called Rostrogordo, which besides tent sites also has wooden cabins and various facilities including a pool.
Summertime teen nights
Moms and dads, the city offers cool programmes to keep your kids healthily, happily occupied on summer nights.
Healthy fun!
If you happen to bring your kids to Melilla during the summer, keep in mind that the city's Social Welfare Council has for several years now run a programme intended to offer youngsters a fun, healthy, alcohol-free alternative to the typical summertime free-for-all. Free of charge and aimed at ages 13 to 22 (younger kids can participate with parental permission), there's something to catch any boy or girl's interest - sports, pool activities, photography classes, and more, until 12:30am nightly. It's truly a great way for them to have fun and make friends!
Melilla Day
Official ceremonies, tributes, a military parade - welcome to September 17 in Melilla.
A celebration of the founding of Spanish Melilla.
September 17 is a festive occasion in Melilla, commemorating the date in 1497 when its capture by Spanish troops made it part of Spain. Official ceremonies include the Tribute to the Flag, held in Pedro de Estopiñán Square, named for the general considered the city's founder and graced with a statue of him. Another important part of the day is the big armed forces parade, attended by multitudes of locals and visitors who show up streetside early in the morning to be sure to get the best viewing spots.
Virgen del Carmen Festivities
Every July 16, Melilla perks up when the city's fisherfolk honour their patroness - and share their joy with you!
Celebrating the patroness of fishermen.
As you would expect in a city with such venerable maritime and fishing traditions, the feast day of the Virgin del Carmen, patroness of fishermen, is a big deal in Melilla. The focus of the celebration is in a traditional neighbourhood of fishermen called Corea, whose denizens pour a lot of joy and passion into it indeed. If you come here on July 16 you'll find street parties featuring a giant paella and children's activities, as well as the traditional procession of the virgin from the racetrack to the Church of St. Augustine and then onward to the beach, where it is floated along shore for a bit on a boat. The big day ends up with an offering of flowers in the Plaza de los Pescadores (Fishermen's Square) in honour of those who lost their lives at sea in the line of duty.
Melilla Cinema Week
Seven days of stimulating new celluloid reinvigorates any city's culture, and this festival is proof of that in Melilla.
A topnotch cultural initiative.
Celebrated yearly in mid-May since 2009, Melilla's Cinema Week provides a shot in the arm to the city's culture, screening around 20 films, both Spanish and international, in the Kursaal Theatre and Cinema Perrelló. Opening night is of course a gala affair, with appearances and performances by filmmakers, actors, singers, and dancers from Melilla and throughout Spain. In addition to the movie screenings, there are various exhibitions, book presentations, panel discussions, and other events relating to all aspects of cinema. The festival has been a gratifying success since its inauguration, especially considering that otherwise the city is home to just one full-time cinema.
Royal Maritime Club of Melilla
The city's premier club, with many attractive assets including its Punto y Coma restaurant.
A club in full.
Founded in March 1944, the Melilla Maritime Club is a lodestar for the city. Its facilities are divided into various areas such as a game room, reading room, children's play areas, and wet areas. The club offers sailing instruction for beginners and more advanced levels. You can also come in to dine at the Punto y Coma Restaurant, with a special reserved area and an outside deck with wonderful bay views. Other offerings include El Chiringuito, open till the wee hours; La Cafetería, lovely for enjoying breakfast with a sea view; and an exhibition space (located in the Plaza de España) dedicated to promoting young artists both from Melilla and elsewhere in Spain.
Melilla Bull Ring
A pretty architectural mix of Mudejar, Modernista, and Baroque, in yellow and white, with September its annual high point.
The 'Mosque of Bullfighting.'
Africa's only remaining bullring (the one in Ceuta closed in 1995) was dubbed by a reknowned critic, Gregorio Corrochano, the "Mosque of Bullfighting." Designed by Alejandro Blong González, it was inaugurated in 1947, with Spain's legendary toreador Manolete supposed to take part, except that he died ten days beforehand. It's an interesting architectural mix of neo-Mudejar (Moorish-influenced medieval) features with Modernista elements and profuse Baroque ornamentation. Yellows and whites predominate on the much-restored façade, while the interior is mostly white. Bullfights are held every so often, but the top toreadors tend to hit town during the big annual festivities in the month of September.
Perelló Theatre-Cinema
Behind a Modernista and Art Deco façade is the city's only movie theatre.
A one-of-a-kind theatre in Melilla.
This is the only full-time commercial cinema currently open in Melilla. The Perelló building is the work of Luis García Alix, and dates from 1926. Before heading in to see a film, stop for a few moments to admire the façade, in which the architect blends Modernisme with Art Deco, with curious details including lions' heads and windows with bows. You will also be impressed by the splendid interiors, which make going to the movies a much richer experience than merely plunking yourself down in a seat and staring at the screen. You can check what's showing in any of the local newspapers or via the Perelló's Twitter feed (https://twitter.com/CinePerello).
Culture at the Kursaal Theatre
You name it, you can see it, from traditional Spanish operetta to today's latest, and serious conferences to film screenings.
Diverse stage offerings.
A versatile, modern, multifunction space, the Kursaal Theatre hosts major events of diverse types almost every week. That includes everything from intimate recitals to large musical productions of operas and zarzuelas (traditional Spanish operettas), as well as stage plays and dance, both ballet and modern. It's a popular conference venue, and on occasion radio and TV shows are also taped or live-broadcast here. In order to keep up with the times, the theatre's owners have also been screening films, including those in 3D. So if you're into culture, you should definitely make time for a stop here.
The September Fair
Temperatures ease in September, and the city decks itself out for its big annual celebrations - a fun time to get to know it!
Festivities honouring the city's patroness.
Melilla's September festivities to honour its patroness the Virgin of Victory make this a uniquely special time to visit. Not just because the fierce summer temperatures ease off a bit, but also because of the many activities during this month. The fair is like one you would see in Andalusia, with a multitude of stands, lively merriment and concerts. On September 8th a procession is held which parades the image of the virgin through throngs of locals throughout the city. At night, the party ramps up even more with musical performances at the official celebration stand, as well as parades of gigantes and cabezudos (giant papier-mâché figures). On the last day, firecrackers and fireworks wind the proceedings up with a bang.
Scuba diving Cape Tres Forcas
A tranquil, scenic spot for year-round diving.
Undah da sea…
Cape Tres Forcas is one of this coast's top dive spots thanks to the calmness and clarity of the waters hereabouts, providing unprecedented access to a multitude of corals and brightly coloured fish. Its additional advantages over other dive spots is its mild year-round climate and water temperatures. And on top of all that, it isn't overrun by the diving masses, allowing you to enjoy all this submarine beauty in perfect peace. There are various points of entry, but among the top choices are the Agudú bluffs, a rocky platform called the Plancha Colorada, and Cala Blanca. In all these areas you can find small coves with lovely sand beaches reachable only on foot.
Gran Casino de Melilla
Besides casino games, it's also known for its Snack café, a popular meeting place for locals.
Try your luck, or just have a drink.
Located in the Noray Marina, Melilla's casino is just as well known as a local watering hole and hangout, thanks to its Snack café, where folks come to share a drink with friends (quite a large bar menu here) and watch football on enormous TV screens. And of course if you're the gambling type, well, you're in exactly the right place, aren't you? There are tables galore, offering poker, American-style roulette, and blackjack, as as well as plenty of blinking, bleeping slot and bingo machines, where play starts at just .20 euros. Tournaments of one sort or another are held weekly, and on the casino website (www.grancasinomelilla.es) you can download a coupon entitling you to a free entry with complimentary cocktail.
Puerto Noray
Full of outdoor cafés, pubs, restaurants, discos…there's always something to do at any time of day and any time of year.
There's always something going on down at the port.
Puerto Noray is Melilla's marina, the perfect spot to head for a stroll and a drink, tapas or fish dishes at any of a plethora of open-air cafés open year-round. Most of the city's pubs and discos are also to be found here, and so especially on weekends, the area is alive and kicking until well into the morning. Keep in mind, of course, that this is a fairly touristy area, so prices will be higher than most elsewhere in the city. The marina has 340 boat slips, and in August hosts Melilla Nautical Week, a high-level sailing competition that counts toward the Spanish championship, which during that month turns the zone into quite the whirlwind of sailing types and visitors coming to see them.
Raising your blood sugar at the locally famous Gurugú pastry shop.
An old and reknowned pastry shop with traditional and modern specialties to die for.
A mountain of treats at a place named for a mountain.
Probably Melilla's oldest and best known's pastry shop takes its name from the great hill surrounding the city. Founded in 1917, Confitería Gurugú has been run ever since by three generations of the same family, and although much has changed since the early years, the elders of the family still recall the aromas given off by the recently baked goodies when they were transferred from the ovens to the store shelves. Specialties include biscuits similar to ladyfingers, as well as seasonal treats such as torrijas (a kind of French toast), egg-studded Easter cakes known as monas de pascua, and marzipan-filled huesos de santo ("saints' bones"). They also make turnovers and all manner of other traditional baked goods, as well as innovative pastries in various colours, flavours, and shapes. It's located on Called General Padeja.
Mediterranean cuisine
El Quijote or Bravo, two good spots for Mediterranean cooking.
Two good choices.
Thanks to its location right on the Mediterranean, this is a mode of cookery that comes naturally to Melilla, and in fact you'll find it in most places around town, although with varying degrees of specialisation depending on the locale. A good example of this is El Quijote on Paseo Marítimo Mir Berlanga, a simple, pleasant spot which will, besides amply satisfying your appetite with its Mediterranean and seafood specialties, also offer a roomy outdoor area with pretty views out to sea. You can also try the Restaurante Bravo (Carretera de Farhana) a three-fork establishment with Spanish and international dishes served in a welcoming, classical environment. Honestly, it won't be easy to choose between all the goodies on the menu, but you can't go wrong with the soup of the day as the first course and the truffle sirloin as your main dish.
Pinchos morunos - meat kebabs, a local specialty.
You'll find these treats all over Melilla, but the best are in Casa Sadia.
Beef or chicken on a skewer.
In the bars of Melilla, among the most traditional and ubiquitous of foods are the pinchos morunos - skewered, heavily spiced beef or chicken kebabs (hardly ever pork) - sometimes served as tapas. One of the places that does them best is the venerable Casa Sadia, located in a downtown alleyway of the same name. It's been in operation since 1938, is always full, and has a large, pleasant terrace for sitting outside. And another interesting thing to note is that the creator of the restaurant was Jewish - and in fact, the place is located right alongside a synagogue. If, by the way, you have trouble finding it, just ask any local!
The Parador Nacional Restaurant
Fine local cuisine, excellent Spanish wines, and heartstopping panoramas. Put this on your list.
Spectacular views, spectacular chews.
The restaurant of the Parador Nacional de Melilla has two huge pluses even beyond the fine quality of its cuisine: a spectacular panoramic vista over the city thanks to its raised location, as well as its elegant, modern dining room. You'll find recipes typical of Melilla cuisine, though you will also find tapas, plate specials and set menus offering green salads or soups as appetisers, plus a main course usually consisting of fish, such as monkfish casserole or fried filets. It's also notable for its dessert menu, mostly Spanish but with some Moroccan specialties as well, such as bastille (a sweet meat pie made of - squab!). All of this is accompanied by the best of the top Spanish wine regions.
Tearooms
It's nothing like teatime at home - but a wholly fascinating experience!
One lump or two?
The North African vibe is very noticeable in the bars of Melilla, and tearooms are common throughout the city as they are in Morocco. They're generally very laid back and finely decorated, where people come to relax and enjoy a large variety of teas. One particularly fine option is the Tetería Nazarí on Calle Actor Tallavi, which calls itself a space to enjoy "the aroma of tea, orange blossom, and honey," and which also serves a large selection of crêpes and pastries. Another spot especially worth recommending is Tetería Volubilis (Calle La Legión), which takes its name from the Roman ruins discovered in the north of Morocco. And though it might seem odd, in some of these establishments you can enjoy this traditional tea - always with its traditional mint leaves - accompanied by churros (sugar-dusted fried dough from Spain)!
Berber cuisine
The Berber presence in Melilla is heavy and ubiquitous, at tearooms, restaurants, and elsewhere, offering an exotic menu of flavours.
The Berbers of Melilla.
The Berber tribes of Morocco's northern regions have definitely made their mark on the cuisine here in Melilla. This type of cookery is characterised by combinations of sweet and sour, heavy use of spices, and a touch of heat. Typical dishes include harira, a hearty, strongly-spiced meat-and-vegetable soup; the typical Moroccan stew tajine; and meat kebabs. And of course we can't forget couscous, that traditional North African dish of semolina cooked and accompanied by meat and vegetables. A good place to try traditional Berber cuisine is El Caracol Moderno on Calle Salvador Rueda. While in town you should also sample the local green tea, whether at this same restaurant or other establishments such as Cafetería Los Arcos, next to the Church of the Sacred Heart.
Heaven for lovers of fish and shellfish
Grilled herring? Seafood rice soup? The menu from the sea is endless, and so are the deals!
Excellent value for money.
It's not hard to find top-quality seafood at good prices in this seacoast city. Right on the seafront promenade, for example, you'll come across the seafood restaurant La Pérgola, which serves up memorable views in addition to some excellent fish grills (herring is a particular specialty), great homemade desserts, and special menus. Or, right down the street, there's La Casa del Marisco, new in 2013 and notable for its design and the quality of its seafood. Away from the port area, head for Casa Juanito on Calle Marqués de Montemar, where you'll find a wide selection of fresh shellfish and fish to choose from before it's cooked. The kitchen here specialises in arroz caldoso (soupy seafood rice) and has a large space for special celebrations.
tapas
Melilla is another of those cities that conquer you for its traditional and modern tapas, don't miss out on trying them!
Interesting, rich and cheap.
As in the whole coast of southern Spain, Melilla is a good place to try good and cheap tapas, which are generally offered with a drink at no additional cost. One of the most common is the traditional Moorish pincho, but today the establishments have been modernized and also offer elaborate canapés inspired by the so-called 'new cuisine'. Walking through the center of the city you will find numerous places to enjoy a good tapa, highlighting some particularly interesting places, such as Casa Fede, located on Carlos V street. The specialization in tapas in this place has reached such a point that one of its two rooms are reserved for those who prefer to eat tapas (the other is used for the restaurant itself). Other options are La Cantina (Buceta street), El rincón (López Moreno street) or Mesón Fornos (General Polaviaja).
Jewelry and ceramics
An endless array of traditional Moroccan wares - hookahs a-go-go!
No-haggling zone.
In Melilla there is a great jewelry tradition, so unsurprisingly it's easy to find superb designs in all manner of fine metals and precious gems. Watches are especially characteristic of local wares, and you'll find an endless variety of types, qualities, and prices - a both attractive and useful memento of your visit. If you're looking for something either more affordable or exotic, you can also opt for an item of traditional North African craftsmanship. In the marketplaces of Melilla you'll find the likes of traditional dishware such as tajines; decorated metal items like mirrors and tea trays; and of course the famous hookahs or water pipes, whose use the merchants will explain to you. You may feel tempted to haggle, but this is Melilla, not Morocco, and the practice is not as common here.
Inexpensive goods in Nador
Nador offers strolling among parks, plazas - and above all, prices cheaper than in Melilla!
Shopping for the thriftiest.
If you're willing to venture a little way out of town, the nearest Moroccan city to Melilla is Nador, 15 kilometres (9 miles) beyond the Beni Enzar border. It's not particularly historic nor full of interesting sites, although there are some pleasant parks and plazas to enjoy. It's main allure, however, lies in the availability of merchandise at prices considerably lower than you'll find in Melilla, including handicrafts, which you'll find concentrated along Avenue Kasaria. You can also visit the Morakeb souk, where you'll find articles of clothing such as the very typical djellabas, as well as pottery, spices, and of course, plenty of knockoffs of luxury goods. Organised day excursions will get you out to Nador, but you can also catch a taxi on your own - one to Beni Enzar, then another out to Nador; it's possible to split the fare with others going to the same destination.
Markets of Melilla
A mix of sights, textures, and aromas as distinctive as sausage and spices, sandalwood and salmon, incense and onion. Check it out!
Culinary exchanges
For many years the city has been home to two large markets, the Central and the Real, the latter located in the neighbourhood of the same name. To get a real sense of the life of the city, you really should get yourself in to see one of these markets - not just to watch locals doing their thing but to see how the four main local cultures have each made their mark on local gastronomy. So amid the passageways here you'll find stalls dedicated to the sale of typical Spanish cold cuts such as sausages and hams, others with North African spices such as sandalwood and frankincense. Then there are endless displays of fresh fish, baked goods, and top-notch produce. The Central Market was recently relocated next to Ramón y Cajal Plaza, and its previous quarters are being renovated to house a number of cultural institutions.
Shopping across the border.
Crossing the Morocco border, you'll find yourself in a neighbourhood that's a hodgepodge of street stands with very good prices.
A very different kind of experience.
As soon as you pass the border that separates Spanish Melilla from Morocco - you can get here by taxi, and the pass is a mere formality, as long as you have your passport with you - you'll find yourself in a neighbourhood called Chinatown, full of little street stands filled with produce, fish, and meat, all available at prices lower than those in Melilla. Chances are you won't need to buy much of what's on offer, but even so, for a sociological - and photographic - experience, it's a pretty cool experience. And if you can speak Spanish, the merchants are happy to exchange a few words with you about their merchandise. A very different and local experience just a few minutes from town.
Melilla City Market
It has the feel of a Moroccan souk, complete with carpets, slippers, kaftans, spices, and shouting.
Come with me to the casbah…
The city market has been held for a number of years in the Sepes Polygon, and - not surprisingly, given where we are - here you feel like you could be in the midst of a frenetic souk in any city in Morocco. For that reason alone it's worth a visit - to watch the comings and goings of buyers and sellers surrounding dozens of stands selling goods from the everyday (electronic gadgets, cologne) to items with better souvenir potential, such as carpets and babuchas (typical Moroccan slippers). The market runs Monday through Saturday, always in the morning, and it's a great way of becoming familiar with a side of Melilla that has always been an integral part of its personality: buying and selling. If you'd like a great idea for a souvenir or gift, consider a kaftan traditional North African garment - roomy and comfortable, which you will find in varying qualities and prices.
The Golden Triangle
Good shopping, special prices, great architecture!
The downtown and Modernista commercial district.
The so-called Golden Triangle doesn't allude so much what other cities refer to as their "golden miles" but rather to an area that's home to some of Melilla's most recognisable Modernista buildings. These days, this area, which begins at Plaza de España and continues along the long Avenida Juan Carlos I, brings together the city's largest concentration of retail establishments, from small local boutiques to branches of major international brands. You'll find every type of product including clothing and accessories, as well as many shops dealing in crafts, earthenware, and jewelry. It's truly the perfect spot to do most if not all of your shopping in Melilla - and furthermore, you'll find prices more attractive here than on mainland Spain, thanks to the sales tax breaks afforded to local residents.
The House of Glass
The old site of the Hotel Victoria was the first building in Melillsa equipped with a lift.
A "scandalous" glass façade.
This is the popular name for the building that was once home to the luxurious Queen Victoria Hotel built in 1927 by entrepreneur Ramón Gironella. It hosted the cream of local and visiting high society, was Melilla's first building to have a lift, and probably also the first with a glass front (originally a white glass, later changed to one of a more greenish hue). Yet despite its sumptuousness, the hotel was short-lived, closing its doors in 1935 most likely due to the Great Depression. A number of businesses have since come and gone here, but by the beginning of the last decade the premises had become so run down that the local government undertook a still-ongoing restoration in 2011.
City Hall
With a neo-Mudejar exterior and a tremendously ornate interior, these premises stand out especially around Christmastime because of its melodic clock.
Inaugurated in 1947.
An imposing 1940s building presiding over the Plaza de España, also the work of the famed and ubiquitous Enrique Nieto. For decades the city hall was of course the seat of the city government, until in 1995 Melilla officially became an autonomous city and so it thereupon became the seat of the Melilla Assembly. The structure is neo-Mudejar in style (Mudejar referring to Moorish-influenced Medieval architecture), with two main towers in Arab style akin to little minarets. Between them the clock stands out; during the Christmas holidays it plays different melodies. The building's interior is heavily adorned, in particular the Hall of Columns and the Gilded Salon, a veritable design gem. Just next door to this building is the Military Casino, notable for its sober classical style.
Mandir Hindu Community Centre
This Hindu temple is part of the city's Houses of Worship Route.
A key element of Melilla's religious diversity.
Though Melilla's Hindu community barely reaches a hundred individuals, it enjoys an amply proportioned house of worship, either for prayer or simply socialising. Located on Avenida de Castelar, it's housed in a small building filled with images of various deities, symbolic figures, and decorative objects. Together with the Or Zarug Synagogue and various Christian churches, it forms part of the city's Houses of Worship Route, an interesting guided tour which includes basic explanations of all the religions and rites practiced in the city by representatives thereof. The tour is free of charge, but must be booked ahead of time at the city's tourist office, and group sizes are limited to 50 persons.
Or Zarug Synagogue
Melilla's most important synagogue is definitely worth a visit, with its grand wooden pulpit, lamps, and windows.
The pride of Melilla's Jewish community.
Melilla's Jews - most of whose ancestors arrived here after they were expelled from mainland Spain beginning in 1492 by order of Ferdinand and Isabella - have been thoroughly integrated into local society for centuries, and there are six synagogues in the city, the most important of which is Or Zaruah, designed by Enrique Nieto and inaugurated in 1924. The building is half hidden, so it's a little tricky to find unless you're specifically looking for it. The lovely façade on Calle López Moreno is rendered in yellowish hues and its interior has a richly carved wooden pupit, grand lamps and windows, and a zone specially designated for women. The synagogue was financed by the patron Yamín Benarroch, whose name translates as "sacred light." For some years now, the synagogue has been part of the Houses of Worship Route tour, a city initiative to expand local cultural offerings.
Bank of Spain Building
Monumental and classical in the midst of the Modernista zone, a clear example of Melilla eclecticism.
That staircase!
One of the buildings in the Plaza de España housed for nearly a century the headquarters of the Bank of Spain in Melilla, and though today it does not, the name has stuck. It was in 1911 that the Melilla Chamber of Commerce requested that a branch be established in the city, and it was duly opened in February 1913. This current structure, however, dates from 1944, and it's worth a look because of its façade, an imposing five stories with a grand access stairway and a broad, glassed-in courtyard inside. It particularly stands out in an area where Modernista architecture predominates because of its classical style and monumental proportions. Truly an example, therefore, of Melilla's unique eclecticism.
The Hernández Park Lamppost
Strange but true - it's just a humble lamppost, but one with quite a history. Are you curious?
Modest but important.
At one of the far ends of this broad open space is a simple lamppost, and therein lies a tale that is, believe it or not, worth a visit. In 1902 the park was inaugurated by (and named afer) the head of Melilla's military High Command, Venancio Hernández Fernández. After his death, the Telegrama del Rif newspaper started a drive to finance a monument to the general, with contributions "from 10 cents up to two pesetas." Local citizens raised 649 pesetas and the city government kicked in the rest to cover the 1,500-peseta cost of the lamppost. This modest monument was first installed in 1909 in the park's central promenade but in subsequent years has been moved several times ever further out.
Monument to the Heroes of the Moroccan Campaigns
Towering 14-meter obelisk adorned with bas-reliefs, a winged Victory and a rounded fountain: quite an architectural spectacle!
Monumental art deco.
This spectacular art deco-style monument was designed by the artist Juan López Merino in the 1930s, as a memorial to the many soldiers who fell in the various wars and clashes with the Moroccan neighbor. It is a large obelisk 14 meters high, with bas-reliefs that represent a mother crying for her children killed in combat, while the figure of an anonymous soldier has his gaze lost on the horizon. At its highest point, the monolith is crowned by the figure of a winged Victory. Several decades later, the complex was completed with a large rounded fountain, built by the architect Carlos Buhigas. The complex is illuminated from sunset, offering a beautiful spectacle of lights and colors that contrast with the huge palm trees that populate the entire square.
Plaza de España
Marking 100 years in 2013, it continues to be one of Melilla's most iconic spots. A must.
Symbol of the city.
Marking its 100th anniversary in 2013, Plaza de España with its relatively short but eventful history is an icon of Melilla. King Alfonso XIII was given the symbolic task of knocking down the first stone of the old defensive wall to make way for this grand plaza, which was completed two years later. Nowadays, the Plaza de España is one of the best spots in town to take a break from the heat, thanks to its green zones and its huge trees, surrounding a central fountain which contains the Monument to the Heroes of the Morocco Campaigns. Here in the plaza you'll also find the city's public library and the old city hall, now the seat of the autonomous city assembly.
Conventico Caves
Back in the days when Moroccans still besieged Melilla, the locals would take cover here - and now so can you, free of charge.
A curious place of refuge in times of attack.
Located in the City Wall of the Cross next to the Church of the Conception, these curious caves were for years among the most important places in Melilla not just for their storage capacity but because they served as shelter for residents when the city came under attack from the Moroccans. During these periods, it was commonplace to celebrate religious services and other public acts in these caves. They consist of three levels and date from the beginning of the 18th century. And through the centuries they remained in such good condition that entire families lived down here. Nowadays they have been restored, have added multimedia exhibits about their history, and are open to the public for free visits.
Church of Our Lady of the Most Pure
A must-see church, particularly for its carving of Our Lady of Victory, full of diamonds, sapphires, and rubies.
A witness to history.
Built around the middle of the 17th century, this church has borne silent witness to most of the city's history, enduring sieges and disasters throughout four centuries. It has three naves and various Baroque altarpieces, but the biggest standouts are the 16th-century baptismal font and in particular the Christ of the True Cross, dating from the end of the 15th. It also holds the venerated image of Our Lady of Victory, the city's patroness, a priceless carving of the Virgin Mary with a crown composed of innumerable diamonds, sapphires and rubies especially crafted by a Madrid jeweler. The church took a quarter of a century to construct and was inaugurated in December 1682.
Old Melilla
Melilla's antique core offers many reasons to visit as a site of national "heritage of cultural interest."
An evocative trip back in time.
The city's oldest area is a fortified precinct with its origins in the 16th and 17th centuries. For a real sense of that era, wander its narrow lanes, and for example, pass through the Hornabeque Tunnel into the Plaza de Armas. This spot was an old presidio which still preserves a number of cannons as well as a monument dedicated to onetime governor Carlos Ramírez de Arellano. From the plaza, steps lead to a terrace from which you can get a spectacular view of the Ensenada de los Galápagos (Terrapin Cove). Within this walled quarter you'll also find the Baroque-style Church of the Most Pure Conception, the Santiago Gate, and behind it, the Santiago Chapel, the only Gothic religious building in North Africa. For these reasons and more, Old Melilla is officially classified as Spanish national "heritage of cultural interest."
Kursaal Theatre
Also designed by Enrique Nieto but along more sober, geometric lines, today it's Melilla's number-one theatre.
The city's top theatrical venue.
The city's most important theatre in the wake of the 1982 closing of the other great Melilla theatrical venue, El Monumental. The building is the work of Enrique Nieto, although it was not built from the ground up but rather a remodeling of an existing 1912 structure that hosted not only theatrical performances but also parties, dance competitions, gymnastics meets, and film screenings. In 1930 it was decided to revamp and modernise the Kursaal, with Nieto designing a new geometric façade, very restrained lines, and a long, narrow balcony as its centrepiece. In recent years it was closed for restoration but reopened in 2011, and can accommodate up to a thousand people.
Las Peñuelas Cisterns
What started out as a purely functional affair turned into a visitworthy work of art.
More than just cisterns.
Over the course of its history, and especially since it began to grow dramatically as of the mid-16th century, Melilla has been prone to persistent drought, so the three enormous cisterns which have supplied water to the city for centuries are important indeed. Theirs is an interesting history, as well, because when searching for a construction location, it had to be someplace sheltered from continual bombardment from Moroccan forces yet with a good enough connection to the city. And beyond the merely functional, the masons brought in from the eastern Mediterranean not only built them solidly but attractively, creating a grandiose grouping mixing both engineering and artistry. They're located just in front of the museum complex called Aljibes de las Peñuelas and can be visited free of charge.
Casa de la Reconquista
A rectangular structure with large windows, profuse ornamentation, grandiose airs - this is Nieto's magnum opus.
Undulating Art Nouveau.
This is perhaps Melilla's foremost example of the Modernista Art Nouveau-style architecture that originated in Catalonia. It's a grand rectangular home of four stories, profusely decorated with rounded forms, enormous picture windows, and balconies in each room. Located on Plaza Menéndez Pelayo, it was built in 1915 and designed by Enrique Nieto - in fact, it was one of the Catalan architect's first commissions in the city, where he had arrived in 1909. The house is of the type of Modernismo that evokes the sinuous, undulating forms of nature, and that's why you will note a multitude of floral and animal motifs along the façade, as well as busts of women. From this house you can observe, furthermore, other buildings designed by the same architect, including the Casa La Pilarica, a mix of Modernismo and Art Deco, and the eminently Modernista El Acueducto.
Enrique Nieto statue
Much of Melilla's Modernista, and most prominent, architecture, is thanks to this Catalan architect resident.
Homage to a disciple of Gaudí.
Strolling up broad Avenida Juan Carlos I, lined with some of Melilla's most important buildings, you'll come upon the statue the city dedicated to the architect Enrique Nieto y Nieto, creator of much of this Spanish enclave's Modernista (Art Nouveau) architecture of the early 20th century. Catalan in origin and a disciple of the great Antoni Gaudí, Nieto came to Melilla as a young man and was responsible for a number of public and religious buildings. The statue in question is not grandiose, but rather life-size, right on the sidewalk, in which the architect is depicted with rolled-up plans under his arm. Installed in 2008, the work was carried out by the Melilla sculptor Mustaffa Arruf as part of a larger project meant to popularise the work of this architect among the city's population as well as introduce him to visitors.
Automobile Museum
All manner of vehicles, including motorcycles with sidecars, old petrol pumps, and various bits and pieces of antique auto culture - car buffs, don't miss this one!
Love on four wheels.
In this museum you'll find more than 30 vehicles, a good number of motorbikes (some complete with sidecars), and all kinds of artifacts relating to 20th-century car culture, from ads to garage tools, even an antique petrol pump. But even apart from the automobile aspect, the museum also offers the visitor an interesting perspective on 20th-century Melilla as it examines the evolution of the city's streets and squares to adapt to automotive traffic (it's often easy for us today to overlook how revolutionary and transformative this was for cities in the 20th century).
Gaselec Exhibition Hall
Update or die!
Temporary exhibitions and shows.
Here in the Plaza Rafael Fernández de Castro y Pedrea, since 2003 the Gaselec Foundation's Exhibition Hall has served as a venue for temporary exhibitions of all types, especially art- and history-oriented, in which young people from Melilla and elsewhere have been able to display their talents, work, and research. It's an open, accessible space which has infused new life into the city, and organises various exhibits each year. One event that's held annually, however, is the "Egyptology Encounter," a series in which talks, seminars, conferences, and documentary films all focus on this fascinating ancient civilisation of North Africa.
Sacred Art Collection
These devotional and liturgical objects and ornaments provide a window into the importance of the city's Catholic community.
Catholic religious items spanning the 18th to 20th centuries.
Catholics are the largest of Melilla's four main faith communities, and this important municipal collection of sacred art has come together over the years as a result of donations or loans from churches, private organisations, and religious fraternities such as the brotherhood of the Virgin of Victory and Our Father Jesus the Nazarene, in collaboration with the Diocese of Malaga. Housed in the Hospedería of the Monks of Melilla la Vieja, next to the Church of the Most Pure Conception, the collection includes more than 100 objects spanning the 18th through 20th centuries, including liturgical and processional objects, ornaments and devotional pieces, and more. The museum is open from Tuesday through Sunday, and guided tours are available by reservation.
Gaselec Electric Museum
Transformers, vacuum tubes, and more - tech geeks and the nostalgic will especially love this blast from the electrical past.
Ghosts of technology past.
As technological advances become ever more feverish, things that once seemed revolutionary and even miraculous, such as the machinery, transformers, and tools which brought electricity to all of Melilla throughout the 20th century, became obsolete. Many of the items here were found abandoned in one or another facility of Gaselec, Melilla's electric company, until in 1997 it was decided to put them on display for the public. The resulting museum has hundreds of pieces, including real eye-openers such as a diagram from 1900 which lays out the city's first electric grid. Housed in Gaselec's Technical Centre on Calle Comandante García Morato, the museum is divided into one section dedicated to large machinery such as voltage transformers and another which recreates offices of the 20th century.
Museum of Military History
This museum's two great halls hold 500 objct objects and an amazing scale model of the Plaza de Melilla.
An old munitions warehouse, now a museum.
A section of the city's 16th-century stone ramparts where guns and gunpowder were once stored, was turned in 1997 into a military history museum with a grant from the Army Museum in Madrid to mark Melilla's 500th anniversary as a Spanish city. So the Bastion of the Most Pure Conception was reconditioned and divided into two grand halls filled with all manner of martial material, both historic and contemporary, and more general historic documents and maps relating to the city. Among the more than 500 items, undoubtedly the most eye-catching is the scale model of the Plaza de Melilla, ordered built by King Ferdinand VII in the early 19th century. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday.
The Ibáñez Museum of Melilla
An unusual permanent collection: Spanish art going back generations but with special attention to contemporary local artists you won't see anywhere else.
Art in the House of the Clock.
The Torre de la Vela (Tower of the Sail, more popularly known as the Casa del Reloj, House of the Clock) houses a gallery named after Andrés García Ibáñez, a young Almería artist who donated a good portion of his work to the city. But the permanent collection here ranges much farther afield, covering painting, sculpture, drawing, engraving, and photography from some of the masters of Spanish art such as Goya (represented by an important collection of engravings) and Modernists such as Ricardo Baroja, Picasso, and Dalí. There are six halls, including one dedicated to the avant garde, another to realism, and one especially set aside for contemporary Melilla painters. The museum is closed Monday.
Museum of Archaeology and History
Based in the Almacenes de las Peñuelas complex, this museum is a must for understanding Melilla.
A well-ordered, well-explained timeline.
When this institution in the doughty former warehouses/bomb shelter Almacenes de las Peñuelas on Calle de la Maestranza officially became a museum in 1987, it had already been collecting local archaeological finds since the early 20th century - it's just that they were all stashed haphazardly, uncatalogued and unexhibited. Now the museum is well organised on several levels which present Melilla's history in chronological order. So there are halls dedicated to prehistory, classical antiquity (the museum's strongest and largest collection), the Middle Ages, the modern era, and the contemporary period. The museum is open daily.
Ethnographic Museum of Amazigh and Sephardic Cultures
clear example of an intercultural museum: Berbers and Sephardim are the stars of its rooms.
Bomb proof building.
Located within the Almacenes de las Peñuelas museum complex, this center vindicates the importance of Melilla as a meeting place for different cultures. That is why inside you will find all kinds of pieces that review the art and customs of the Berber inhabitants (also called Amazigh), inhabitants of North Africa since time immemorial; and the Sephardim, who began to arrive in the city in the mid-19th century, implanting its commercial dynamics. The museum is open from Tuesday to Saturday all day and on Sunday mornings. In addition to visiting its interior, it is worth admiring the complex from the outside, since the Almacenes de las Peñuelas were at one time one of the most important buildings in the city, since all the products that arrived from the Peninsula were stored there and they also served as a shelter in case of bombing, thanks to their six solid bomb-proof vaults.
King's Hospital
Melilla's first hospital is now the Central Archive. Find out why it makes for an interesting visit!
A neoclassical landmark.
Located in Plaza de la Parada in the original walled quarter, Melilla la Vieja, this neoclassic building was built as the city's first hospital in the 18th century and remains one of its oldest structures. It now houses the Central Archive and Publications Service, with innumerable books and other media about the city, the Spanish protectorate in Morocco, and Berber culture. It also functions as an art and cultural centre in which various exhibitions are held throughout the year (photography, maps, engravings, and so on, from the 19th century to the present). It's open from Monday through Saturday and guided tours are available. In addition to exploring the building itself, it's also worth taking a stroll around outside to check out the lighthouse and cliffs alongside which it stands.
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