Tourist guide: what to do and see in Buenos Aires

Although this is further from the city in the north, the Jose Leon Suarez neighbourhood is home to a must-visit for any meat lover. This inn boasts a charming setting in an enormous dining hall filled with rustic wooden tables, which is almost always bursting with diners. You will see a huge variety of meats strung up around the kitchen, either in slices or whole, and their enormous grills and ovens used to cook the dishes. Your first impression will be that it looks like a school dining hall or a village’s festival tent, but behind this unusual exterior lie an array of meats, such as beef, suckling pig and chicken, all cooked in different, traditional ways. Its menu, along with its atmosphere, will make this an unforgettable dining experience. This restaurant slowly gained recognition by its locals and specialists, solely due to its high-quality dishes, which they have been preparing since the 1980s.

With over twenty years of history, this restaurant is not just a culinary point of reference in the city, but also further afield. Its owner, Hugo Chavarrieta, who is now a famous Buenos Aires caterer, opened this locale as a family business, which grew in popularity and fame and is now one of the city’s leading restaurants, famous for its quality grills. The recipe for its success lies in its meticulous meat selection and a selection of over 48,000 bottles of wine and cava, appealing to any wine lover who visits the city. Its menu also offers other dishes apart from grills, which are normally slightly unusual, such as kidneys, sweetbreads and testicles, which have proven a hit with even the pickiest of eaters. If you order meat, don’t be surprised to see the waited hit it with a spoon before serving it, as this is the restaurant’s ritual to test the tenderness of its dishes. This restaurant has drawn in several famous diners, such as musicians Joaquin Sabina and Joan Manuel Serrat, making it an extremely popular place to be. Don’t forget to book your table in advance!

In the Palermo neighbourhood, on the corner of Guatemala and Borges Street, this restaurant caters to nostalgic travellers with its famous way of preparing its Spanish dishes. It is not the only in the city, as you will notice a great Mediterranean influence here, but it does live up to it’s name, which means ‘favourite’ in Spanish. It is divided into two parts, which both have the typical tavern atmosphere. On one side, entering through the corner door, is a cosy locale called ‘almacen’ (warehouse), filled with tall tables for those who wish to grab a snack. A visit here requires forward planning, as you will often find it full before lunchtime. On the other side is a more tranquil, traditional area, serving proper meals for lunch and dinner, with a predominantly Spanish menu, although it also offers some local dishes. Once you have taken your seat and ordered drinks, remember that the dishes here are made for sharing and that it is best to go early in the evening, to beat the crowds flocking here for its delicious, generous portions.

This Argentinean pizzeria franchise has gained popularity in this city, since its inauguration in 1986 by Spaniard Manuel Fajardo. Despite its cosmopolitan fast food appearance, you will find that the food is actually very similar to typical Argentinean dishes. Empanadas and pizzas share many of the same qualities, and they are prepared here in enormous traditional ovens in their kitchen. They are then served in the dining area, decorated in the city’s traditional motifs. As well as its signature dishes, it also caters to any tastes, offering salads, pasta and ‘fast food’, such as rice, steaks, hamburgers and more. As well as its food, it also boasts a number of restaurants dotted across the north-east of the city, making it the perfect place to sit down and relax for a minute, in between obligatory visits to Palermo, the Congress area, Mayo Square, Recoleta and the Canitas, San Telmo and Almagro neighbourhoods.

The very soul of tango, with its love and heartaches, was born in this two hundred year-old locale. Located on Independencia de San Telmo Avenue, this used to be a warehouse from which it got its name. The annexed building on the opposite side of the road is a restaurant, which served as a meeting place for the most famous artists of this port culture. Today, although it is very famous, it is exclusively a tourist attraction, and is no longer frequented by people united by the music. It does, however, offer one of the best ways to experience a typical Argentinean dinner, surrounded by folklore and charged atmosphere. With its walls and its dishes, it is impossible not to feel part of this atmosphere, either dining in its restaurant or enjoying a dinner-show in one of its halls. This is an unforgettable dining experience, combining the performances of renowned artists with delicious empanadas, chorizo, fish of the day and any other port dishes that make up the restaurant’s menu.

This building speaks for itself when it comes to its history and the neighbourhood in which it is located. Walk through Dorrego Square and you will see its domes guiding you towards it. Take your time before going inside, as its importance lies in its exterior. Observe it thoroughly, as some of the details tell you of its origin. Its façade’s eclectic style reflects the city’s artistic development, as Neo-Colonial elements combine with classical elements to convey an image of before and after. The grandeur of this building also serves as a reminder that the San Telmo neighbourhood used to be the home of the wealthiest families, who moved north in the late 19th century due to yellow fever. However, the most representative inhabitants of this area are the seafarers. The mast in front of the church represents these people, renowned for their loyalty to Saint Peter. Despite this, not many people know that the real name of this church is Our Lady of Bethlehem. The name has been mixed up, due to the fact that the Saint Peter parishioners have been coming here since the early 19th century.

This is the symbol of respect between nations. On the centenary of the May Revolution, when the Argentinean village defeated the English armies in its battle for independence, the United Kingdom gave the city this tower. Named the Tower of the English until recent times, it is located on Libertador Avenue in the Retiro area. It is now used as an information centre for the city’s museums, but it also has another attraction on the sixth floor, namely its lookout point. Although this is not one of the highest point of the city, it offers a very special view, due to its location between Aerea Square and San Martin Square, in the north of the city. On its façade, you will see the United Kingdom’s coat of arms to show where this building came from. This was one of the many monuments given to the city by various countries on its centenary. Among these are the Magna Carta Monument from Spain, located between Libertador and Sarmiento Avenues, and the Christopher Columbus monument given by Italy, located in the park of the same name.

As you cover one of the city’s main arteries, namely Mayo Avenue, which connects the port to Monserrat, you will have to pass through Mariano Moreno and Congress Squares. Almost instinctively, you will stop here to take in the impressive Congress building, which presides over this green and brown plaza in the middle of the city. Inside, watching over the entrance is the Monument to the Two Congresses, which comprises several symbols. At the top is a female figure, representing the Republic, stepping on snakes that symbolise Evil and propped up by a plough, symbolising work. Surrounding her are other figures representing the Assembly of 1813 and the Congress of 1816, orator of independence. These figures are raised on an enormous fountain, which represents the Plata River, making it an authentic visual homage to the building of the Republic. Another monument on this Square is just a few metres away from the Congress, namely Rodin’s famous Thinker. This statue belongs to the ‘Dante’s Inferno’ group, and was made by melting down the original form, so it wasn’t considered a replica, but a variation of the same statue. If you stand in front of this statue, you will get the perfect photo of both monuments in a line, with the Congress in the background. Say cheese!

This is the city’s most recent monument, symbolising youth, beauty and hope. Along this imposing, unavoidable avenue in the Recoleta neighbourhood, you will pass by United Nations Square, where you will immediately notice an over twenty-metre tall aluminium flower, which rises up out of a pool of water. This monument is different to the others, as it was only created in 2002. The Floralis Generica is not just a work of art, but a work of aerodynamic engineering, as it contains a system of mechanisms, which allow its six 4,000 kilo petals to open in the morning and close at night. Its designer, Eduardo Catalano, took its name from Latin to signify any type of flower. To really appreciate it, make your way to the paths around it, which have been specifically designed to offer different views of the monument. From here, it is also worth strolling around the vast green space surrounding it, to enjoy a few minutes of tranquillity and the landscape with this monument in the distance.

Like many of the religious and governmental buildings in the city, this basilica played a role in the history of Argentinean history, particularly in the time of Spanish invasions. Joining Teniente General Juan Domingo Peron Street with Reconquista Street, this National Historic Monument is a must-visit, as the 18th century church was the third to stand on this plot and is a reference point for architectural and artistic studies. It also had many functions, including bookshop, school and meeting place for artists, and is an icon of the revolution, as its atrium is where Santiago de Liniers directed the attack at Mayo Square against English invasion. You will also find a frieze depicting Manuel Belgrano, the leader of the Northern Army, passing the Virgin a baton, as he was said to have prayed in this chapel before winning the Battle of Tucuman against the Spanish. This is how he gained the independence of the fourteen Plata River provinces, which is the reason for portraying this historical event as a miracle.

This temple is not just a religious point of interest. It is a true map of the history of Argentina. In the Monserrat neighborhood, known for being the battlefield against the English troops in 1807, stands this basilica whose beginnings date back to 1751, when it was still a simple Dominican church because it was not granted the title of basilica until 1910. One of the towers was rebuilt after being destroyed by the English fire, but in it you can appreciate the replicas of the bullets it bore before its renovation, and discounting this and some other punctual repair, the structure presents the same classic colonial image from your birth. Inside the basilica there are also two English flags from the first invasion and two Spanish ones, taken in the Upper Peru campaign. After the expulsion of the Dominicans in 1823 by Rivadavia, it was used as a Museum of Natural History, and an astrology observatory and a meteorological office were installed in its towers, but only twelve years later it was returned to them. Curiously, although it is not well known, two weather vanes are located at the top of the towers, one of which is a dog that honors the origin of the Dominican term, which from Latin means guardians of the lord. This building, declared a National Historic Monument, is a stop on the capital road that rounds off the walk through the historic neighborhood.

Separating two of the three parts that form historic Lavalle Square, this monument, sculpted by Italian Pietro Costa in 1887, is dedicated to General Juan Lavalle. You’ll have to look up to take in this monument, which is twenty-two metres tall. It is also the only construction of its kind in the whole city, as you will not find any other towering statues here. One you have admired its impressive presence, noticeable from afar at Cordoba or 9th of July Avenue and Libertad and Tucuman Streets, it is worth observing it from a distance to understand the perspective. The first thing you will notice is its great height from all angles and distances. You will then notice the fourteen marble shields at its base, representing each province of the Plata River. Inscribed in the monument are different legends revolving around this national hero and direct descendant of Hernan Cortes, referring to his influence in the war and Argentina’s independence. After this visit, you will be in the perfect area to cross Diagonal Norte to the river, or take Cordoba Avenue to the west.

It is impossible to walk through Mayo Square without noticing this cathedral’s façade, which is far from traditional and looks more like a Roman or Greek temple. Finished in 1821, this young cathedral was built following five collapses since the late 16th century, when it was built as a modest clay chapel. The old, flimsy structures were continuously being built and rebuilt until the early 19th century, when the current building was erected with twelve columns in the rear, representing the twelve apostles, and a mural depicting the reunion of Joseph, his brothers and his father Jacob, referring to the union of the Buenos Aires province with the rest of the country after the civil war. Walk through its impressive entrance to find a chapel, which is a prime example of religious architecture and décor, from its famous Venetian mosaic floor to its domes, decorated with biblical motifs. The greatest treasure this church holds, is the mausoleum of General Jose de San Martin, one of the most renowned icons of South American liberation during colonial times. The remains of this national hero and forefather of the nation are a popular touristic and cultural attraction.

Its striking façade will not go unnoticed, on a walk through Mayo Square. This building exudes history at first sight, and its appearance is extremely memorable. It is pink in colour, as it is said to be a mixture of the red of the Federals and the white of the Unitarians, who were present during the civil war in the 19th century. However, most people believe it to be the result of paint mixed with bovine blood, a common technique in painting history. The land that this building stands on has been the location for many official buildings since the late 16th century, when the royal Fortress was created, up until the present day government headquarters, which contains the President of the Nation’s office and witnesses many political debates and civil protests. If you’re drawn to the country’s history, don’t miss a visit here on weekends or holidays, to visit its halls, offices, vestibules and the museum. This is where a large part of Argentinean history is kept.

It is essential to take a trip down 9th of July Avenue, which separates the coast from the inland city. Pass by the north side and you will find yourself at Republica Square, recognisable by its 67-metre tall obelisk, which is inarguably the icon of the city. At ground level, you will see the remains of where a church dedicated to Saint Nicolas of Bari once stood a hundred years beforehand, where the first Argentinean flag was raised. This monument was erected in 1936, commemorating the fourth centenary of the founding of the city, and was built in only 60 days, causing much controversy. The subject of protests and the brunt of jokes for port-dwellers, this monument came close to being demolished in its first years, but the controversy waned over the years, until citizens began regarding it as part of their city and a symbol of their identity. In the last decades, the obelisk has witnessed several protests, and official, unofficial, legal and illegal celebrations. These events have ranged from draping it in Argentinean and German flags to celebrate their 150-year relationship, to attaching Greenpeace posters at its peak during climate-change rallies.

Fans of leather should be aware that Argentina is one of the key players in its production. For many years, the treating of this material has been one of the country’s most iconic features. You will find the best places to buy all sorts of leather good in the capital, mainly on Murillo Street, north of San Martin Avenue. Here you will find over fifty shops, dedicated to the sale of leather, spread over four blocks. Although this is not the only place to go for leather, it is the most popular, due to its proximity to other shops and the variety it offers. You’ll find any garment or accessory, such as waistcoats, trousers, jackets, boots, gloves, hats, bags and anything else you may desire. This huge selection also allows for price and quality comparison before you decide to purchase anything. Ever since the pioneering Murillo 666 set up shop on this street in the mid-1980s, other establishments quickly followed suit, such as SLM, Donna and the Sicilian leather specialist. Despite the vast array of leather shops across the city’s shopping streets, you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for right here.

In the Recoleta Neighbourhood, a slice of Hispano-America awaits you. Since the late 1970s, artisans from all over have gathered in this eclectic neighbourhood every weekend. This is where they showcase their works, which focus on function, design and art from each culture. Each stall sells something different, such as the most traditional to the most contemporary clothing, hand-made crockery from different countries on the continent, decorative or working looms, home-made food and authentic pieces of art sold by the artists themselves. Painters and other artists working in the open-air accompany all of this. This is one of the best ways to visit the area, as you can start off by familiarising yourself with the streets in the morning, eat lunch in one of the pizzerias or restaurants and the finish off the day with an open-air dinner and film screening at the Village, or in one of its many pubs.

Any Sunday is a good day to visit Dorrego Square, as it embodies the never-ending festive, eclectic atmosphere of the San Telmo Festival. All different types of stalls line the roads from the centre of the square, buzzing with the sounds of people passing by and merchants selling their wares. The loudest are typically those at travelling stalls, selling hot empanadas and mate. The stalls play the lead role in this festival, either set up outside concrete establishments, or set up in the middle of the street. Due to the whimsical variety of items sold, it’s better to go and have a look round, instead of looking for a particular item. The stalls bring colour and life to this popular neighbourhood, providing a unique shopping experience. The mixture of merchants and artists makes it hard not to stop every few steps to look at something new. Street musicians, tango dancers, mimes and street actors never fail to surprise passers-by, and you never know what you might find round the next corner.

One of the greatest things about shopping on holiday is getting lost amongst the knick-knacks in second-hand and vintage shops, which is also a good way of discovering a new city. Buen Orden is one of these shops. You only need to see its shop window to understand how unique it is. When you walk in you’ll feel like you’ve arrived at a fancy dress party you weren’t invited to, or perhaps even feel like you’re the one organising the costumes! But these clothes are being sold for everyday use, and its outlandish vintage items are one of its biggest appeals, showing that every type of garment has a place in your wardrobe. If you tend to shy away from the eccentric, check out their accessories from Louis Vuitton to Balenciaga, as well as their well-priced leather goods.

On of the most popular Argentinean firms in the last few years, has been that of shoe designer Marcelo Canton. He opened his shop at 4673 El Salvador in 2001 with his business partner, Diego Trivelloni, which offers his the classic, trademark shoes: shiny, slightly retro shoes, with laces and a low heel, as well as a variety of new collections. Canton says that geometric shapes play a vital role in his designs, due to the fact that he studied architecture and uses specific materials. The way the shoes are made is practically unique, as each one is made by hand, which has attracted several celebrities, such as it-girl Alexa Chung. According to the owners, the ‘Mishka’ shoes are made for a woman with personality, who is looking for quality and comfort, without sacrificing an original design. The brand’s latest challenge is to transfer these values to their own clothing range.

This is one of the most modern shopping centres in Buenos Aires, which clearly focuses on the 21st-century woman, and first opened its doors in 1990 in this fashion district. Despite its youth, it was completely remodelled in 2007 and 2008, both inside and out. It adopted the slogan ‘passion for women’ and acquired a new image, adding more collections to its 150 shops. Although this is not the most accessible or affordable shopping area, it is worth a visit during their sales period, where you may very well find yourself a bargain en route to the nearby outlets, also in the Palermo neighbourhood. Due to its excellent location, many choose to visit Alta Palermo just to walk around and dine on a patio that accommodates 730 people. The entire complex has Wi-Fi, and you can often find discount coupons and other offers through their social media.

If you watch where you’re going in the San Telmo neighbourhood, you will come across this elegant brand shop, which has been a fixture here for over 35 years. The current owners, Hector Horacio and Maria Ines Gil, offer their customers their expert antique knowledge, so you can immediately find what you’re looking for. Its array of high-quality products date back a long time, from the late 19th century to the late 20th century, and are beautifully preserved. Several celebrities, including Catherine Deneuve and Ferrogamo, who were drawn here by this famous port business, which has now increased its clientele after opening another shop in Estados Unidos Street. Gil Antiques also specialises in wedding dresses, party outfits and accessories. You will find their phone number on their website, if you wish to book an appointment before visiting.

The Retiro neighbourhood is home to this outstanding shopping centre, located in a Neoclassical 19th century building, designed by English architect Waldorp and inaugurated in 1988. If you are looking for refined retail, this is the place to be, as it houses famous, exclusive international brands, such as Ferragamo, Tiffany & Co, Max Mara, Carolina Herrera and Swarovski. As its name implies, Bullrich Courtyard is named after the affluent family of the same name, and used to be a shop, which supplied whimsical collector’s items, as well as animals and livestock. Due to its great success, they decided to invest in its image in 1995, and enlisted Pfeifer & Zurdo to give the place a face-lift, incorporating contemporary elements, but preserving the delicate balance of past, present and future. The Bullrich Courtyard also has a cultural centre, where you can often find concerts, art exhibitions, film festivals and fashion showcases.

When you pass number 1860 on Santa Fe Avenue in the Recoleta neighbourhood, you will be right in front of one of the world’s most spectacular bookshops. Situated in the old Grand Splendid cinema-theatre, it has preserved the majesty of the original building, which was inaugurated in 1919 and hosted some of the most important tango artists. Since 2000, El Ateneo has become the main (and largest) bookshop and publishing house, with branches all over the city, making up the Ihlsa group. The building was designed by architects Pero and Torres Armengol, and during its last reform into a bookshop, the original layout was preserved throughout the overwhelming 2,000 square metres it occupies. This included the central dome, painted by Italian Nazareno Orlandi, the curtain, the boxes and the stage, which is now the cafeteria. If you love bookshops, Buenos Aires has a lot to offer. You may also be interested in visiting the Classic and Modern Bookshop (892 Callao) and the Avila Bookshop (500 Adolfo Alsina), the oldest in the city.

This is one of the reasons why Buenos Aires is often referred to as the Paris of Latin America. At the end of the 19th century, the original architects of these galleries, Francisco Seeber and Emilio Bunge, wanted to recreate the luxury and elegance of the Parisian Bon Marché shops on the other side of the ocean. Its impressive interior attracts over 900,000 visitors every month, from tourist and customers to those simply attracted by its magnificence. The central dome is a popular architectural attraction, along with its glass vaults. Since its renovation in 1945, it has been filled with artistic murals. Brands such as Chanel, Christian Lacroix and Lancome, along with other sports, perfume and accessory brands and restaurants, occupy over 150 spaces, which have been there since 1992, when they were known as the ‘Pacific Galleries’. Located on the central Florida Avenue, they are open every day of the week.

This building from 1910 was an ice-skating rink in the Buenos Aires neighbourhood of Recoleta, and only became an exhibition hall in the 1960s. Its permanent collection comprises 1020 works, including paintings, sculptures, engravings, pictures, acrylics, watercolours, photos, ceramics, textiles, frescos and new mediums and installations. These increase annually, as it plays host to the National Prize of Fine Arts Awards. The Palais school offers discussions, courses and musical events from schools all over the country. These, along with the frescos decorating the interior, painted by students from the Alfredo Guido School in 1934, have made the Palais de Glace an important player in Argentinean contemporary art.

Since it began in 1996, this foundation has become extremely important to the Buenos Aires, from an artistic point of view. It offers seminars, conferences, concerts and courses, along with temporary exhibitions, a cultural programme based on important artistic movements in the 20th century and modern-day displays of photos, design and electronic music. It is important to remember its initial function, as it works together with prestigious cultural institutions to create programmes based on educational exchanges and projects. Its bookshop offers a catalogue of Argentinean, Latin American and international art publications. This, along with its cinema, special events and its own television channel, make for a vast array of cultural offerings, transforming the old 19th century building into an emblematic point of reference for contemporary art in Buenos Aires.

This cultural centre is located in the traditional, exclusive Recoleta Neighbourhood, north of the city of Buenos Aires. It occupies a building, which used to be the old Viamonte General Asylum and is one of the city’s most important cultural spaces. Inaugurated in December 1980, it got its current name in 1990. Here you will find a large variety of activities, comprising demonstrations and art exhibitions, concerts, performances, dance, book readings, poetry recitals, electro-acoustic music and audiovisual shows. Inside, you will find the Museum of Participative Science, with the tagline “Forbidden Not To Touch”. This is the perfect visit if you are travelling with young ones, as it offers interactive educational elements on physical phenomena. The centre hosts many courses and workshops throughout the year, for both kids and grown-ups, dealing with different areas of the visual arts. The terrace displays a series of walls cut to look like old ruins, and offers a panoramic view of the city.

The Buenos Aires Modern Art Museum (‘MANBA’) was started by art critic, Rafael Squirru, in 1956. Since its creation, it occupied several spaces across the city, until the collections were gathered in its current building in 1986. This building, located at the heart of the San Telmo neighbourhood, used to be the old Piccardo cigarette factory. The museum displays Argentinean and international works of art from 1920 to the present day. The varied collection portrays the development of modern art, with the aim to bring society closer to avant-garde trends. It boasts a Bookshop and Document Centre, which provide the public with books, newspapers and specialised documentation on Argentinean and international art from the 20th century to the present day.

A must-visit for cinephiles is the Pablo Ducros Hicken Cinema Museum. This is its full name, and is dedicated to the Argentinean essayist, academic and investigator whose wife donated his personal collection after he died. The centre was created in 1971, with the aim to preserve the country’s cinematic heritage, as well as broadening its recognition. Its opening was thanks to historians Jorge Miguel Couselo and Guillermo Fernandez, despite being initially a travelling exhibition, set up in different locations. Finally, in 2011, it was definitively established in the Boca neighbourhood. One of its greatest claims to fame revolves around the film ‘Metropolis’, by Fritz Lang, which was the first to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage. In 2008, the only full reel of the film containing deleted scenes from its release in 1927 was found in the museum’s archives.

A symbol of Argentina and its citizens, admired by many of her compatriot, Maria Eva Duarte de Peron is the greatest legend ever to exist in Argentina. She managed to become this legend that we remember today, at only 33 years of age, seven of which were spent as the wife of President Juan Domingo Peron. This collection is dedicated to her and is more than just a tribute, as it combines her stories with the history of the country and serves as a reference to this era for generations to come. In its halls you will find some of the actress-turned-politician’s personal belongings. Audiovisual documents, photos, books, props, accessories and a vast array of outfits make up most of this 3,000-piece collection. There are also two other initiatives, which are worth a visit, namely the Travelling Evita Museum, which tours the country, and the Eva Peron National Institute of Historical Investigation, founded in 1998. Contact the museum to reserve a guided tour.

One of the latest additions to the myriad of museums in Buenos Aires is the Buenos Aires Contemporary Art Museum. The ‘MACBA’ (not to be confused with the Barcelona museum of the same name) opened its doors in September 2012 and offers culture and education, divided into four reference categories, namely the permanent exhibitions, the temporary ones, the educational programme and cultural activities. In the words of its employees, ‘it serves as a forum of reflection and access to specific artistic trends in contemporary art, particularly geometric abstract’. These installations were inaugurated during the ‘Global Exchange: geometric abstract since 1950’ exhibition. The MACBA is considered as an authentic, specialised centre, and a 21st century investigation laboratory. The practical information is as follows: remember the museum is closed on Tuesdays, and that general admission is half-price on Wednesdays. Guided tours are offered every afternoon.

The Palace of Running Water is one of the most symbolic monuments in Buenos Aires, and houses a very unique collection. This is where you will find the Large Distribution Deposits, responsible for supplying the city with water, thanks to its 72 million litres of water. Like other large cities, Buenos Aires had to plan the distribution of drinkable water supplies, in order to prevent illness and provide a proper sanitation system, as it had caused lethal epidemics in the past. Among the interesting displays in the museum’s gallery, you will find drainpipes and other old pieces from the 20th century, as well as models, maps, and graphic material from that time. The building was designed by architect Olaf Boyre, who worked alongside Swedish engineer Carlos Nystönner, and was declared a National Historic Monument in 1989. Admission to the museum is free, but bear in mind that opening hours are between 9am and 1pm from Monday to Friday.

Gardel’s voice produces the effect of a singing mermaid, upon tiptoeing into this tranquil, welcoming building. This is where the Argentinean artist, who was born in Toulouse, lived with his mother for seven years, between 1927 and 1933, before setting out on his journey back to France. Completely remodelled and transformed for a nostalgic experience, it was converted into the House of Tango in the 1980s. However, at the start of the 21st century, its owner donated it to the government, and it was transformed into a public museum in 2003. Although the kitchen is one of the only parts with original features, the refurbishment and layout have recreated the life of Gardel, thanks to the wealth of memorabilia dedicated to the King of Tango, affectionately nicknamed the ‘Creole thrush’. Vinyls, guitars, gramophones, photos, portraits, a piano, newspaper cuttings, books and other interesting objects are displayed in various rooms, opening onto a bright covered courtyard. The museum’s dynamic programme includes conferences, film screenings and concerts, as well as daily guided tours.

The large mansion belonging to the family of Errazuriz Alvear, an Argentinean of Spanish origin was declared an Artistic Historical Munument in 1997. It displays objects and furniture, collected by the family throughout the years. The couple lived in France at the beginning of the 20th century, and, upon returning to Buenos Aires in 1916, occupied this Neoclassical residence, designed by French architect René Sergent. The current collection comprises over 4,000 pieces, with particular attention to European and Oriental decorative art, as well as prized sculptures and paintings from the 16th to 19th centuries. Along with the building, the majority of the works were transferred by Errazuriz Alvear to the government in 1935, under the premise of establishing a museum, which would open two years later. Contributions by Countess Rosario de Zubov and Vittorio Asinari di Bernezzo make up America’s most distinguished collection of European miniatures from the 16th to the 20th century. This small and exquisite journey back in time is worthy of such a grand reputation. Make sure to spare some time for a visit to the garden, where you can enjoy an aperitif or a bite to eat.

The Buenos Aires Museum of Latin American Art is based on the extensive collection of Eduardo F. Constantini. At the end of the last century, after a travelling exhibition through Europe and America, this private collector and patron of the arts promoted the construction of a building (through his foundation) to permanently display his magnificent treasure trove of art. In 2001, the space for this gallery was inaugurated in the Palermo neighbourhood, housing over two hundred works of art from modern Latin-American artists, such as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Antonio Berni and Joaquín Torres García. The architectural project, chosen from a contest with over 450 proposals, is the creation of Argentineans Gaston Atelman, Martin Fourcade and Alfredo Tapia. The aim to integrate the museum into the urban design of the city and the everyday life of its inhabitants reflects the wish of its founder. Eduardo F. Constantini defended the museum as "an open and participative cultural space, where the lead role is played by the public". The museum offers guided tours, cinema seasons and cultural courses to any visitor who supports this idea. Don’t forget, the museum closes on Tuesdays.

This is one of the country’s main art galleries. For many it is the most important gallery, but it hasn’t always been located in the Casa de Bombas, built in 1870. Its first collection was exhibited in the Bon Marché Galleries, now the Pacific Galleries. The collection received donations and acquired various pieces, until they had to find a new place in which to reorganise and safely display all the works. Since its inauguration in its current location in 1933, the building has undergone several transformations, such as the construction of the pavilion in 1961, built to house the temporary exhibitions. It boasts approximately 12,000 works of art, dating from the Middle Ages to the 21st century, and includes works by artists such as Rembrandt, Goya, Picasso, Rubens, El Greco, Renoir and Cézanne, as well as focusing on 19th century Argentinean art. It also houses an impressive library with 150,000 specimens, and an auditorium. Admission is free, so check out their website for any upcoming exhibitions and offers.

Part of the Buenos Aires skyline is made up of this ultra-modern neighbourhood’s very tall buildings, which rise up from the Plata River. These enormous skyscrapers also make up part of the economic district, dedicated to business and finance, and most of them belong to the many international companies who have their Argentinean operational headquarters here. But it has not always been like this. At the end of the 19th century, engineer Eduardo Madero acquired permission from the government to provide the city with a port infrastructure. Between 1911 and 1930, this was replaced with a new project, but was forgotten about until 1989, when a definitive revival of the area decided upon. Today, Puerto Madero represents another Buenos Aires, emanating opulence and luxury, where the wealthier classes come to socialise. Its architecture is another of its attractions. In 2001, Spaniard Santiago Calatrava inaugurated the Women’s Bridge, in accordance with the tribute dedicated to the country’s most important female figures.

This is a great way to discover a different culture, without leaving Buenos Aires. The Chinese community is concentrated in Belgrano, in the north of the city. Much like in other cities, a small slice of this vast country has been recreated here. The hustle and bustle in the streets and the smells of delicious Chinese cuisine add to the charm of this group of streets, which start at a traditional and monumental Oriental archway. Stir-fries, rice, seafood and white and red meat await you in the restaurants on Arribenos Street, which has welcomed other Asian cuisines with open arms. In the same vein, the community living in this neighbourhood has become increasingly diverse, which is why many have renamed it the ‘Oriental Quarter’. The best time to visit is on special occasions, such as the Bathing of Buddha, the Moon Festival or the famous Chinese New Year, which is celebrated in January or February.

Old Palermo used to be the centre of danger twenty years ago, but its restoration has brought about the revival of the whole city in many ways. Buenos Aires is not just about tango and grilled meat. Today, between Serrano and Honduras Streets and Julio Cortazar Square, you will find shops and fashion outlets, which are well worth a visit, even if you do not plan on buying anything. Many of these places have preserved the architecture and structure of years gone by. The addition of Soho refers to the neighbourhoods of the same name in London and New York, demonstrating this avant-garde zone’s ability to sustain the same Bohemian atmosphere as its peers. A visit to its bars is highly recommended, as well as taking in the atmosphere of its streets. Before leaving the neighbourhood, head to Palermo Hollywood further north, which is home to film and production studios. There is always an excuse to have a drink in the pubs here, or dine in one of its haute-cuisine restaurants.

This is one of the biggest attractions of 3rd of February Park, and of the city in general. Built through the Japanese delegation in Buenos Aires, it was inaugurated in 1967 by then-princes Akihito and Michiko, to build a closer relationship between the two countries. With posterity, the Argentine-Japanese Cultural Foundation took charge of the garden’s upkeep, promoting authentic cultural life and immersion into the Japanese identity through an abundance of activities. These include lectures on traditional tales, exhibitions of Manga and animation in the garden, traditional tea ceremonies and advanced Japanese cookery classes. Admission costs 24 Pesos for adults, and under-12s and over-65s get in for free. Guided tours are only on weekends, and a visit to the exquisite restaurant is recommended. This is one of the city’s best-kept secrets.

In the capital’s northern zone, in the Palermo neighbourhood, this green space occupies almost seven hectares. The larger area is home to distinct varieties of Argentinean flora, while the smaller area is dedicated to that of the five continents. In 1937, it was named after Carlos Thays, who promoted it in the late 18th century, and it has since then accumulated over 5,000 plant species, making it a National Historic Monument. The impressive natural, urban area is looked over by a red brick building, similar to a castle, and is dotted with beautiful sculptures and gardens to stroll through in all seasons, even if you are not particularly interested in the natural world. For those who are, bear in mind that they often organise activities for adults, such as workshops, conferences, seminars and guided tours.

Away from the centre, just 20 minutes by taxi inland, is one of the city’s most authentic places, declared and Intangible Cultural Heritage site. Every Sunday, as well as every holiday, thousands of people from every province meet here to maintain the roots, origins and the great diversity of the nation of Argentina. Like other large festivals, you will find barbecues, grills, handicrafts, music, orchestras and dance. Numerous folk groups and associations, dressed in their traditional outfits, take the stage to show off special choreographies in an open, welcoming atmosphere. According to its coordinator, Sara Vinocur, the Matadero Festival started in 1986, with the aim of reclaiming the public space after the military dictatorship. This is a great way to remember the Argentinean identity, which is so often forgotten in the cosmopolitan city of Buenos Aires.

This network of squares and avenues is also one of the city’s largest green spaces. Its name is actually 3rd of February Park, named after the date of the Battle of Caseros. President Nicolas de Avellaneda opened it to the public on the 11th of November 1875. He was the successor of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, who proposed its construction. In 1891, the French Director of Public Walkways and landscaper, Carlos Thays, was put in charge of creating the park and incorporating sculptures, such as the monument dedicated to President Sarmiento, by Auguste Rodin. It also underwent expansions in the 20th century. In 1914, the Rosedal was inaugurated. This is one of the most popular areas of the park, due to its jetty and Grecian-inspired bridge. Due to its large expansion, you can visit the Monument of the Spanish, the planetarium and the city’s cycle track, without even leaving the area.

Prepare to see almost anything you could imagine in this vibrant market. San Telmo, located in the neighbourhood of the same name, on Dorrego Square, boasts over two hundred stalls, visited by collectors and people looking for treasures every Sunday. This enormous exchange began in 1970, when a group of merchants acquired a free stall to sell their peculiar, valuable and old merchandise. Today, there is a waiting list for those who wish to occupy one of these stalls, whose names are drawn every week. Once their names are drawn, they are not allowed to pass the responsibility on to anyone else. Livened up with street performances, San Telmo is the place to find all kinds of objects, including rare pieces. Vinyls, coins, jewellery, books, buttons, leather goods…the list goes on. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, it probably doesn’t exist.

Argentina has football fever. Visit the Boca Juniors Stadium and discover one of the most important sporting monuments in the country. Today’s site was inaugurated on the 25th of May 1940, during a match against San Lorenzo, which also saw a victory for the local team. The Bombonera, designed by Yugoslavian architect Viktor Sulcic under the orders of engineer Jose L. Delphini, was named after its similarity to a box of sweets (‘bombons’), which was given to him during this project. This has been spread worldwide, despite the stadium formally being named after one of the club’s presidents, Alberto J. Armando in 2000. With a capacity of around 50,000, this team’s stadium was founded in 1905 by Argentineans of Italian descent, and its characteristic colours of blue and yellow have been worn by stars, such as Roberto Mouzo, Hugo Gatti, Maradona, Martin Palermo and Riquelme.

Once an old fishing town, Buenos Aires has preserved its La Boca neighbourhood, despite becoming the megalopolis it is today. Inside La Boca, the Caminito is a street just 100 metres long, which ends at one of the city’s river basins. This open-air museum, close to the Bombonera football stadium, is lined with inconsistent houses of asymmetrical height, with façades painted in different, eye-catching colours. Locals say that fishermen would use the paint left over from their boats to paint their houses, which is why the Caminito is so remarkable. Take a stroll around the outskirts and you may very well bump into artisans, painters and tango dancers, who make the most of the large daily influx of tourists in this area.

Few burial sites deserve as much attention as this one. This cemetery in the Recoleta neighbourhood is filled with history, myths and legends, which attract tourists and travellers as if it were a mysterious city within the large metropolis. Inaugurated in 1822, it was the project of French engineer Prospero Catelin, for the burial of Catholic people alone. In 1863, this rule was changed, and the cemetery began accepting other faiths. The amazing monumental sculptures of the mausoleums, tombs and gravestones will make you want to immortalize this experience with more than just a photo, which is why on every corner of this over five-hectare area, you will find a poetic and artistic expression of death. The North Cemetery, which was also the first in the city, is where people such as Eva Peron, Adolfo Bioy and presidents Hipolito Irigoyen and Raul Alfonsin have been laid to rest.

Like in many large cities, it is not easy to see the sky at night in Buenos Aires. The city’s many lights illuminate the sky, making it hard to see any stars. However, Buenos Aires is home to one of the most modern and sophisticated planetariums in the world. Here you can observe the starry sky and discover its history and the secrets it holds. If you go through the Palermo parks, not far from Rosedal, you will notice this peculiar building. It is perhaps most comparable to a spaceship from a science fiction film, rather than a science museum. It is worth following your instincts and entering this building, as you will find the museum on the first floor, which displays authentic wonders, such as a piece of metallic meteor found in the 1970s, as well as an authentic piece of moon rock. But it is upstairs, in its 20-metre wide dome, where you will find this building’s real treasure. 320 seats face upwards, towards a very advanced screen. This is where the most important audiovisual show of its kind is to be found. It was designed by the Museum of Natural History in New York, with the collaboration of NASA, and is an unforgettable experience for any visitor.

This is the place to lose yourself in nature and take some time away from the concrete jungle. Just a few kilometres north of the city is the Tigre Delta. This Plata River Delta is an authentic group of small islands, legends and flora and fauna. This is the best place to come and forget any troubles. Once you arrive, your experience here very much depends on what you are looking for, as you have two different options to explore this part of the world. If you are looking for a relaxing trip, immersed in history and surrounded by unique landscapes, a boat trip is the best way to do this. Several companies offer different types of boats, from catamarans to small boat taxis. Most of them have decks with seats, music and a grill on board. If you would prefer to get wet and experience it in a completely different light, there is another option. Various places along the Tigre banks offer an array of canoes, which you can rent. This mode of transport can hold up to six people and your journey will be approximately two hours long.

It is worth going out to the outskirts of the city to nearby towns such as Los Cardales, Lobos or San Antonio de Areco. There is an alternative for those who prefer to investigate a little in the more rural and traditional Argentina. The gaucho festivals, although they are very focused on tourism, are always a good option to get to know the most traditional side of the country. The day begins in the morning and takes practically the whole day in a hacienda, or pampa. They organize a series of activities to get closer to this way of life. You will be able to learn the methods of working in the fields, ride a horse or carriage, called sulky, and attend barbecues in the open air where you can taste a variety of meats and wines typical of the area. In the afternoon, equestrian exhibitions such as horse training or ring bullfighting, a traditional game played on horseback. Activities, all of these, that are carried out in the midst of a great setting. This ranges from the attire of those in charge to the decoration of the old and authentic haciendas, which are spread around the capital. Normally, by mid-afternoon you return to the city, so you still have time to take a walk if you still have the strength and desire after the intense activity.

Buenos Aires is a city that never fails to entertain. Among its many activities, a visit to the Konex Cultural City is a must-do, primarily for its unusual shows. Any local will tell those who want to experience something different to head straight for the Abasto neighbourhood. Don’t miss a visit to this cultural complex, which offers musical shows, theatrical performances and film screenings, particularly from Friday to Monday. Held both inside and outdoors, the experience of these shows is not to be missed, which is why it is better too book tickets in advance or arrive early. The queues can usual get quite long, but there are always street vendors, selling cheap drinks and snacks. Once inside, you’ll be surprised by this peculiar early-20th century building, which has preserved much its original architecture. It is divided into different halls and terraces, and its bar, although slightly pricey, is a great place to pass the time after a show.

By night, Buenos Aires is a city filled with nightlife, music and drinks. Among the different hotbeds of activity, Palermo offers a genuine, lively nocturnal experience. At the heart of this neighbourhood is the Las Canitas zone. From 9pm, the numerous bars and pubs start to open their doors, offering a plethora of options for all tastes and ages. This is a far cry from its old image, when the upper classes lived here in large houses with enormous gardens and the streets were quiet at night. In the past few years, this has become on of the areas, which demonstrated the country’s growing economy, due to its new buildings and youthful, modern atmosphere. With a passion for more international rather than folk style, this zone’s pubs offer great music and cuisine, with a wide selection of drinks and international food. You will also notice that sushi is particularly popular here. Bars will often be full of diners at the beginning of the night, and then transform into nightclubs as the night goes on.

Luca Prodan, one of the most important players in the music world, lived and died on Alsina Street. He was the leader of the rock band Sumo, which was very popular in Argentina in the 1980s. This iconic, sensitive, rebellious and engaged artist still represents the emerging cultural movements in Buenos Aires. Years after his untimely death, his house was transformed into a locale promoting culture and art. Every night, it welcomes a large number of people, generally youths and artists, who come here for film screenings, exhibitions, concerts and theatrical performances. This is one of the best ways to immerse yourself in the nightlife here. Every weekend, it hosts evenings where friends gather to drink and listen to rock music. Above all, this is one of the places where you can experience the city’s cultural soul at its very best. Behind its doors covered in engravings and paintings that say ‘Luca lives’, is a genuine, unadulterated hotbed of the city’s culture and art.

This is the best mode of transport to experience day-to-day life in this city. Along with buses, this is the main mode of transport for locals. It is also where you will find the heart and soul of its inhabitants, beneath its asphalt. Since the inauguration of the first line in 1913, which was the first of its kind in Latin America, the SUBTE has grown a great deal. It transports thousands of students and workers every day, who use it to get around the city. Like in many other world capitals, it is a symbol of the city’s modernisation and is the most appealing way to get from one side to another, as it brings tourists closer to the ‘real’ atmosphere of the city, away from the touristic hotspots. If you’re lucky, you can take Line A from Mayo Square and travel under Rivadavia Avenue, which is the route that its most famous carriages from 1913 still take. Travelling on its original wooden benches is like taking a journey back in time.

It would be difficult not to be seduced by the culture of deepest Buenos Aires, whether it be its sights, sounds, or both. The city offers endless way of enjoying and living this culture. Street tango, which you will find walking thorugh the San Telmo, Palermo and Recoleta districts on any day, gathers hundreds of amateur and professional artists, who take to the streets to honour this cultural heritage. Across the city, you will also find tens of locales offering dinner, drinks and tango shows, including exclusive spaces, such as the legendary El Viejo Almacen and La Ventana in San Telmo, La Esquina Carlos Gardel in the Abasto neighbourhood and the Querandi in Monserrat. The general recommendation is to enter any place you may find on your travels, which buzzes with the sound of tango. The most daring individuals also have another interesting option, which is to partake in tango classes for one day or for several, as they are easily accessible and offered in several places. The majority of the city’s ‘tanguerias’ (tango locales) have rooms for dance classes, as well as the specialised tango schools, such as the Argentinean Tango School in the Congress district and the Carlos Copello Academy in Abasto. The easiest way to partake in this is to attend one of the parties held in various locales across the city centre. This is where people meet to dance and attend classes beforehand, to familiarise themselves with the art.

Many believe that this theatre is a place to visit at least once in your lifetime. Anybody affiliated with opera, theatre, music and dance will not be able to resist a visit here. Located between the Obelisk on 9th of July Avenue and Lavalle Square, it is over one hundred years old and was declared a National Historic Heritage site in 1989. This building has some of the best acoustics in the world, along with the Milan Scala and the Opera in Paris. This has given it international acclaim, making it an emblem of the arts. Today, it is the city’s best representative of its love for the performing arts. It is difficult not to be tempted into the building to watch a performance, as it offers daily events, making it a great evening option. Its vast array of shows includes all kinds of artistic styles, tastes and prices. Some tickets are more exclusive, whereas others are much cheaper, and, depending on the event, tickets are often free on some days. We highly recommend booking your ticket in advance.

One way of integrating yourself into society here is to take up the culture of drinking mate, a South American infusion par excellence, made out of the native herb. Although this was predominantly a home-based culture, it has recently become a staple in locales, where you can sit down and enjoy the drink in its characteristic thermos cup. It is now becoming an alternative to coffee, sold in places all over the city, such as La Pulperia and Mister Mate in San Telmo, which was one of the pioneers in its field, Las Cabras in Palermo, Cunama in the Northern Quarter, Raices in the Nunez neighbourhood and Amanda, which has branches dotted all over the city. Another way of enjoying this infusion native to this region is to gather in a group in any green space, and relax on a bench or on the grass.

This emblematic café is the gateway to another time, where you will feel surrounded by a mixture of history and art, which encompass the city of Buenos Aires. Since it opened in 1858, this café has occupied the same plot on Mayo Avenue for 150 years. A far cry from a museum, gallery or theatre, this has been one of the main cultural points of reference in the city. This is a lively and dynamic place, which has been a popular meeting point for political and artistic figures throughout its history, from Carlos Gardel to Federico Carcia Lorca. Today, when you enter through its wooden door under its legendary sign, you will find the perfect place for breakfast, lunch or an afternoon snack accompanied with a cup of coffee in one of its five rooms. Covered in mementos in the form of pictures and sculptures, it is practically a museum in itself, filled with people sitting around tables, who continue to give this locale its lively atmosphere. We recommend topping off your visit with a visit to one of the café’s shows, whether it be a theatrical performance, a tango show or a literary recital.

There is a perfect way to make a brief stop on the promenade in the middle of the afternoon, and that is to go into any of the ice cream parlors that we find in various parts of the city. The affection that Argentina has for ice cream is only comparable to that of Italy, from which they inherit this culinary culture that is so popular throughout the world. The first thing that surprises when seeing it is its diversity. Chains do not predominate, but instead they are equated to artisan stores, which means that each one offers us a different sensation, preferably when enjoying its flavors on the terraces that they usually have at street level. If we are walking through San Telmo, it is even advisable to take a detour, if necessary, to savor the Patagonian chocolate at the Dylan ice cream parlor on Calle Perú or go to Calle Florida to enter La Abuela Goye, an artisan ice cream parlor that has a counter of about sixty varieties. Further north, in the central area of La Recoleta, we find Arkakao, one of the most famous places among porteños due to the unique flavor of its creamy, artisan ice creams and especially refined types. However, in any walk through the city it is verified that it is not difficult to find one of the other many ice cream parlors to enter to try its peculiarity.

The pizza is the perfect tool for fitting in with the locals, as this country, which has taken aspects from different European cultures, has adopted one of Italy’s most characteristic dishes. It is actually quite difficult to avoid pizzerias in the city centre! From a more rustic homemade to the more modern style, the city’s pizzerias are packed with customers at lunchtime. This type of restaurant is not only popular for its food, but also offers a great atmosphere, created by the love the locals have for fast food and meals on the go. Many people come to these pizzerias during their lunch break, as they can easily pick up a quick bite to eat, which is what other passers-by do too. You can be in Palermo, San Telmo, Puerto Madero, Recoleta or any other central district, and you will always find a place to grab a slice of pizza.

Once you have familiarised yourself with Argentinean cuisine, there are a number of more exotic options for you to try, one of which is the Calle Roche restaurant in the Boca neighbourhood. This is the epitome of class and haute cuisine, since Francis Mallman, one of the most famous Argentinean chefs, took over this old 1920s house in 1999. This locale has created a more refined and well-kept atmosphere, starting with the combination of its vintage décor at the entrance and its menu of Patagonian gastronomy, from the south of Argentina and Chile. The menu consists of a large variety of vegetables and cheeses, prepared in southern style and strikingly presented, and a selection of meats similar to that of other Argentinean restaurants, but uniquely prepared. After lunch or dinner, the restaurant then brings out its top-quality dessert menu, which includes fruit and sweets exquisitely prepared and presented to reflect this locale’s first-class characteristics.