Tourist guide: what to do and see in Marseille
Character and tradition on the French Mediterranean coast
Welcome to France’s oldest city, its most important port city – and, lest we forget, the source of its national anthem, the Marseillaise. You’ll feel like you want to visit every corner of its 240 square kilometres (93 square miles), with itineraries including the 7,000-slip Vieux-Port marina, glorious churches such as Notre-Dame de la Garde and the Abbey of St. Victor, the magnificent island Castle of If where Alexandre Dumas set The Count of Monte Cristo, and the artists’ colony of Estanque. And of course if you’re a seafood lover, the bouillabaisse and other local delicacies will send your palate soaring. A Côte d’Azur must for your bucket list.
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- Sights
- Shopping
- Leisure
- Dining
- Open air
- Museum
- Sights
- Shopping
- Leisure
- Dining
- Open air
- Museum
Maison Empereur
One of Marseille's most iconic retailers is a beloved mishmash that could take you all day to browse.
Kitchenware, housewares, hardware, gardenware - it's Ali Baba's cave in here.
The Maison Empereur on Rue des Recolettes is one of the most venerable shops in town, still going strong after 185 years, and here once you go in you never know when you'll end up leaving. It opened its doors as an ironmonger and to this day retains that irresistible vintage vibe for collectors, even while renovating and adding lines for gardening, kitchen, and DIY. Here you can find stuff like - just to name a handful of examples - antique coffee grinders or metallic toys; 1950s-style dolls; lighthouse-keeper lamps; old-timey razors; cake pans; and all kinds of wine utensils. It's a little like entering Ali Baba's cave - you never know what exotic items you're going to come across.
Noailles Market
Thanks to its links with North Africa and the Arab world, France has many immigrants from those areas. And visiting their market is truly like a magic carpet ride.
Come with me to the kasbah.
Because of its history, its status as a port city, and immigration from North Africa and the Arab world, Marseille has long had plenty of influence from those regions in various aspects of its society and culture. But the Marché de Noailles, open daily next to La Canebière, is the real, unassimilated deal - possibly the closest thing you'll find in Europe to a Maghrebi souk. The first thing that strikes you is the aroma that permeates the air, from the tons of spices sold at scores of stands - an odor that you'll notice lingers in your clothes even after you leave here. Since it's a market for locals, it's mostly food and workaday items sold here, so it's mostly of interest for colour and photos. But on the other hand, you will see some traditional items, as well, for example, hats and embroidery. And as in all bazaars of this type, bargaining is not just recommendable but expected.
Chocolatière du Panier
Both as a gift and as a treat, visiting this chocolate shop will surprise you.
Chocolate in a thousand ways.
Although you'll probably identify this specialty chocolate shop by its aroma, which fills the street, you should recognize the vintage façade of the Chocolatière du Panier, a true Marseillaise institution. Since the eighties, three generations of women -Rosette, Michele and Marina- have worked to create their more than 300 different chocolate specialties with which they create true pieces of gastronomic craftsmanship. If you are thinking of making a gift for those with a sweet tooth, this chocolate shop is the perfect excuse to try its delicatessen. Chocolate accompanied by oreo, blueberries, lemon, rum with raisins... fills beautifully decorated baskets, boxes of chocolates, chocolate bars with fruit, tarts, cakes, biscuits. Whether as a gift or to eat at the moment, if you get hooked on the taste of its secret recipe you can always order products from Chocolatière du Panier, and they will send it to you by post.
Quai des Belges Market
A bit of early-morning colour right at harbour's edge, as fishermen just in from the morning's catch hawk their wares.
A fish market where if the merchandise were any fresher it would be swimming.
Unless you're renting a flat, you wouldn't be able to avail yourself of the fresh fish that arrives early in the morning at the Quai des Belges market, but if you're an early riser, this is certainly a sight to behold (and photograph). It actually feels a bit like a time warp, because the boisterous Marseille fishermen perform the same ritual their fathers and grandfathers did - pulling their boats up, hauling out the gleaming wet fish, and shouting their offers right in the middle of the Port Vieux. The buyers are of course local householders as well as chefs and kitchen managers from all over town - chances are that if you order fish out tonight, you saw it hauled out of a boat here on Quai des Belges this morning.
Le Panier
Discovering the old and new secrets of an inner city whose history stretches back to ancient Greece.
Marseille's old quarter, a delicious labyrinth.
Just north of the Vieux Port, Marseille's old quarter, Le Panier, is an ancient warren of streets that still harbours a vestige of an ancient agora from the Greeks who first settled Massalia, along with narrow lanes, stairways, churches, townhouses, shops, much of it with a charmingly weathered air. Parts have been gentrified, and there are boutiques, galleries, and artisans shops selling souvenirs; if you're an oenophile, we'd recommend the Microcosmos Chai Urbain, where the competent staff can advise you on the best local wines - a bottle or a case - exquisitely packed. Call ahead and you can reserve a visit to its cellars for a tasting; here they are always happy to share their passion for viniculture with visitors.
Place Cours Julien
Lively, boho, and trendy the Cours Julien is Marseille's hipster central, and a fun place to hang out for a few hours.
A morning or afternoon of street art and hipness-till-it-hurts.
Possibly Marseille's hippest spot, the "Cours Ju" is ground zero for urban artists, hipsters, musicians, and boho types. There are scores of shops - specialising in music, film, or rare books, for example - but you can also just have a seat at a sidewalk café and people-watch over a cup of coffee or a pastis. Meanwhile, street artists have surprises to spring at every turn, with elaborate murals, improvised caricatures, or graffiti scrawled across façades. Among the square's most iconic establishments is Oogie Lifestore mixing avant-garde styling with the latest trends in clothes, books, music - plus you can change your look in its salon, grab a drank, even have a photo session. Intense, for sure.
Ceramics Creation Workshop
A modern, ethnic twist on a traditional Provençal craft.
The high-quality work of a young ceramic artist.
One of the characteristics of traditional Provençal artesanry is its earthenware and tilework. Ground zero for this clay work is the village of Saint Quentin La Poterie, where potters have been at work since at least the 17th century and have been the region's economic engine ever since. But even if you can't make it out to St. Quentin, you can get a contemporary taste of this noble craft at the small Rue du Petit Puits studio of young Serge Moutarlier. A graduate of the Ceramics School of Provence at Aubagne, he produces a variety of items including figurines, crockery, candelabras, ashtrays, even magnets, in motifs drawing from the Mediterranean and from his Berber family background, all decorated exotically and with exquisite attention to detail.
L'Estaque
A charming fishing village that played a key role in the birth of modern art, it's a must-visit for those with artistic interests today, as well as for its prettiness.
An arty village for purchases, or just to enjoy.
For several decades in the 19th and 20th centuries, the fishing village of L'Estaque, east of Marseille, was a centre and inspiration for French artists especially of the Impressionist, Cubist, and Fauvist movements, with more famous names including Cézanne, Braque, and Renoir. Besides the picturesque atmosphere and surroundings, there are galleries and shops, as well as a Monticelli Foundation (named after another lesser-known Impressionist), where you can buy reproductions, books, and other materials relating to this artistic history and legacy. Other galleries sell contemporary works. And if you visit in May, the whole town turns out in a festival called Estaqu'Arts.
Marseillaise de la Licorne Soap Shop
You'll find a wonderful memento here, as well as see firsthand how it's made.
The unmistakable fragrance of Marseille soap.
Marseille has been famous for its soap for centuries, and a whiff of it immediately evokes the freshness of clean clothes, soft hands, welcoming homes. If you're looking for an original gift - or just wish to learn more about the history and artesenal techniques behind these reknowned traditional soaps, head for the Savonnerie Marseillaise de la Licorne in Le Cours Julien. In additional to the original recipe based on extra virgin olive oil, new versions have been created based on natural ingredients such as green tea, honey, lilac, lavender, vanilla, violet, and roses. Here you'll also find other cosmetics such as balsamic oils, liquid soaps, and perfumes, to mix and match with delicate wicker or metalic gift boxes. The perfect gift for sybarites (including yourself).
La Canebière
Full of shops, cafés, and some of the city's most important commercial buildings, it's the spot for a spot of shopping - or just a stimulating stroll.
Marseille's top commercial high street.
Marseille's principal high street and tourist magnet (and a place where you'll want to watch your wallet) derives its name from the city's history as a center for hemp production. The street was built in the 17th century, though it was preceded for seven centuries by the kilometre-long Rue Saint-Ferréol and surrounding lanes lined with shops. Here you'll find the impressive likes of the Stock Exchange, art galleries, luxury fashion boutiques, bookshops, parfumeries, department stores like Galeries Lafayette, and a succession of cafés which make delightful pit stops and resting places during a morning or afternoon of shopping. If you're in the mood for a bit of window (or even more active) shopping and don't mind a bit of hurlyburly, a spin on La Canebière may be just the ticket.
Museum of Decorative Arts, Ceramics and Fashion
Whether or not you enter to view its elaborate contents, you should at least come to admire this museum's impressive exterior and gardens.
The decorative arts museum in the castle.
The famous Borély Castle, belonging to the family of the same name and located in the Bonneveine neighbourhood, is worth a visit not just because of its distinguished Museum of Decorative Arts, Ceramics and Fashion but because of its extraordinarily handsome 18th century façade and 17 hectares (42 acres) of grounds, divided into three parks, with gardens, hills, ponds, waterfalls, and groves. For its part, the 1,600-square-metre (17,000-square-foot) interior holds another series of masterpieces, beginning with the palace's own frescos by painter Louis Chaix, as well as 2,500 objets including glassware, ceramics, tapestries, vases, and more. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Museum of Contemporary Art
A look at what today's artists are doing in a variety of disciplines.
Art that's cutting-edge and international.
Marseille is one of the world's top tier centers of contemporary art, and the city artistic ferment and cultural cross-pollination reaches its maximum expression here at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC). So if you're a fan of the avant garde, you'll definitely want to put this on your list. The collection starts from the Neorrealism of the 1950s and continues right up to the present, including photography, sculpture, painting, graphic art, installations, and performance art from the likes of Michelangelo Pistoletto, Gilles, Barbier, Ben Tinguely, and Gabriel Orozco. The museum is located on Avenue Haifa, open Tuesday through Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; the entrance fee is 4 euros.
Fine Arts Museum
If you're an art lover, you simply must not miss this marvelous display of mostly French and Italian old masters.
A temple to the splendour of European art.
Also located in the Palais Longchamp, the Musée des Beaux-Arts is Marseille's oldest museum (est. 1801), its collection established with works confiscated during the French Revolution. It is rich in works of many of the great artists working in Spain, the Netherlands, and especially France and Italy from the 16th through the 19th centuries. Works run from Perugino to Vernet, passing through Rubens and Jordaens, with an especially complete collection, unsurprisingly, of the 17th-century Marseille artist Pierre Puget. The museum is closed Thursday; hours are 9am to 7pm.
Museum of Natural History
A grandiose institution indeed, housing all manner of fossils, animal skeletons, reptiles, and much more.
A Siberian mammoth is here to greet you.
One of the permanent collections that forms part of the Palais Longchamps in the Museum of Natural History, created in 1819 and considered one of the best museums of its kind in Europe. Greeting you at the entrance is a gigantic mammoth skeleton from what is today Siberia, but that's just the beginning of a sometimes surprising collection of fossilised animals and accompanying historical documentation, much of it dating back to the 19th century when many of the first major paleontological and naturalist discoveries were made. There's extensive material relating to botany, as well as more than 40,000 prehistoric fossils of reptiles, great mammals, birds, and fish from five continents. The museum is closed Monday and holidays, with hours 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; the entrance fee is 5 euros.
Cantini Museum
Modern art and its various currents, in a fine antique building.
The best of modern art.
Housed in an 18th-century manse on the Rue Grignan, donated to the city by the art patron Jules Cantini back in 1888, and renovated in 2013 on the occasion of Marseille holding the title of European Capital of Culture, the Cantini Museum holds on of the best collections of French art anywhere from the period between 1900 and 1960. The best of the artistic ferment of the modern era is seen in these halls, which cover cubism, dadaism, expressionism, and various later isms. You'll be immersed in the stars of the modern art universe, including Picasso, Kandinsky, Ernst, Hopper, and many others. In addition, as of the 1960s and especially in recent years, the museum has been building its collection of contemporary photography.
Grobet-Labadie Museum
A look back into the life, times, and customs of a noble 19th-century family.
The fancy lifestyles of the bourgeoisie of the past.
Were you ever curious as to how and what the well-to-do did back in the 19th century, what kind of canopy beds they slumbered in, where they organised their soirées, what kinds of paintings and tapestries covered their walls? All that and more can be found inside this manse of the Grobet-Labadie family, alongside the Palais Longchamp, donated by the family to the city. Twice a widow, Marie Labadie inherited a vast fortune, which she used in part to amass a collection of art and furnishings from all over Europe. So the three floors here are stuffed with all manner of exquisite handiwork, furniture, exotic musical instruments, and curious objects such as an 18th-century magic lantern.
Museum of Fashion
An eye-opening look at how historic and more recent trends have influenced the way we've dressed.
Where else could this museum have been?
Fashion defines France, and Marseille is home to one of the most complete collections of textiles and designs from the 1930s to the present, housed in the sophisticated Fashion Museum in the Stock Exchange Palace in La Canebiere. On two storeys and 600 square metres (6500 square feet), the mannekins seem to have a life of their own to explain the evolution of fashion trends and above all, the differences in women's fashion through time. Free from Tuesday to Sunday, 12 noon to 7 p.m., the collection reflects French society's political and economic history through clothing. Photographs, audiovisual content, historical fashion shows and more than 4,000 outfits and accessories compose France's esthetic legacy in this glamourous museum.
Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology
A journey back through the Mediterranean of the distant past.
For archaeology buffs.
Located in the Vieille Charité, in the picturesque Le Panier district, this museum naturally covers the archaeological heritage of Marseille and the French Riviera with their own many layers of centuries' worth history and conquest, along with Rome, Greece, Mesopotamia, and other civilisations around the Mediterranean basin. But where it especially shines is its collection of the mummies, hieroglyphs, papyri, and jewelry of ancient Egypt, second in France only to that of the Louvre. It's open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., with an entrance fee of 3 euros.
Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations
Although recent, highly successful, due to the journey it takes through the civilizations of the Mediterranean.
A very recent museum.
One of the latest jewels in the museum crown of Marseille is the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations (MuCEM), which opened its doors in the summer of 2013 with an ambitious cultural programme. In just three months it became one of the 50 most visited museums in the world, with its 5,700 square meters installed next to the Fort of San Juan facing the sea. Conceived as an independent citadel, the MuCEM tries to summarize the Mediterranean essence through civilization, art history, archeology and anthropology. In addition to its permanent collection, temporary exhibitions, conferences and documentary cycles are also organized that you cannot miss. The MuCEM is open every day (except Tuesday), from 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., with free access to the surroundings of its architecture and a visit to the collection for eight euros.
Saint-Rémy de Provence
Laid back, elegant, and artsy, among other things this is the birthplace of Nostradamus, the place where Van Gogh was interned, and offers some fetching local artisanry.
A small city with big things to offer.
Besides being home to the psychiatric clinic to which Vincent Van Gogh committed himself for a year, Saint-Rémy receives the visitor with its reknowned, incomparable Provençal landscapes at the foot of the Alpilles mountains. There's frequent rail and bus service from Marseille, just 75 kilometres (45 miles) away. The place where Van Gogh stayed, in the Romanesque monastery of Saint-Paule-de-Mausole, still treats patients but is also partly devoted to the artist, including his onetime room; there's an intepretive centre in town as well. There's a trail covering sites of many of the painter's most famous subjects, and you can browse galleries and ateliers of numerous other artists all over town, as well. You'll also have plenty of opportunity to shop for some lovely Provence products including linen clothing, lavender perfume, and natural soaps. And just a couple of kilometres (just over a mile) outside town, we also recommend a visit to the Roman ruins of Glanum, with recently unearthed remains of baths, villas, triumphal arches, mausoleums, and a temple.
Arles
Another classic Provence charmer, perhaps best known for the time spent there by the painter Vincent van Gogh.
Truly a place to fall in love with.
Legendary painter Vincent van Gogh was captivated by the beauty of Arles and its surrounding countryside in 1888-89, and it is just as enchanting more than 130 years later. An hour by train from Marseille, the city is also notable for ancient Roman sites such as the baths of Constantine, the necropolis next to the walls of the old city, and the amphitheatre (in which, by the way, today "bullfights" à la française are held in which the bulls are not slain but rather consist of young men trying to snatch rosettes from between the beasts' horns). Because of this ancient heritage, as well as its Romanesque sites of the early Middle Ages, Arles has long held UNESCO World Heritage status.
Avignon
An incredibly picturesque city with much to see, making for a very rewarding day trip indeed.
A must when in Provence.
Dating back to Roman times and the seat of the Roman Catholic papacy for more than century, Avignon is a day or overnight trip you should try to make time for when visiting Marseille, just 90 minutes away by bus. The first thing that will most impress you about the city is the majesty of structures such as Notre Dame d'Avignon and the Gothic Palais des Papes, 14th-century seat of the popes during the so-called "Babylonian Captivity," site of much intrigue among the curia, and more recently declared by UNESCO a World Heritage Site. From this palace you can visit the medieval Saint Bénezet Bridge on the Rhône River, which besides a chapel and museum represents a charming symbol of the city. To see the papal complex from the other side of the river you can catch a free ferry which crosses every 20 minutes.
Aix-en-Provence
Not far from Marseille, a look at the life, times, and work of Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne.
Immerse yourself in Impressionism and history.
The ancient Roman settlement that became Aix-en-Provence lies a mere half hour's drive from Marseille, making it a perfect day trip to enjoy its bohemian, artistic vibe. And if you're familiar with the 19th-century Impressionists - especially the oils and watercolours of Paul Cézanne - you'll probably recognise the landscapes surrounding it. Starting from the local tourist office, you can followed an itinerary in the footsteps of the painter - including the cafés he frequented, the churches, schools, houses, and countryside from which he drew inspiration. Afterward, there's nothing better than sitting at a lively sidewalk café in the picturesque old quarter over a cup of coffee and a plate of calissons, typical local confections of candied fruit and almond paste. Thus fortified, you're ready to tackle the many other sites Aix has to offer, including a wonderful cathedral dating back to the 4th century, a tapestry museum, and of course other museums of art and sundry historic sites.
The Luberon Valley
A heady mix of colors and fragrances up in the lavender-clad hills not far from Marseille.
Just follow the sweet scent of lavender.
If you have a day to hire a car, one highly recommendable drive is the Luberon Valley, among vineyards, chateaux, and vast fields of lavender that will make you feel like you're in a French film yourself. Considered one of France's loveliest regions, and the backdrop for many a movie, the Luberon Regional Nature Park is known for its lavender fields filling the air with their fragrance, particularly at the start of summer. The town of Gordes, some 90 kilometres (60 miles) from Marseille, is one of the most tourist-oriented in the area, both because of its impressive views from high in the Vaucluse hills and its medieval architecture and cobblestone streets. With any luck your visit will coincide with one of the weekly artisan street markets where you can find not only some of the lovely local arts and crafts but examples of the many fragrant and tasty products made with lavender.
The Citadel of Les Baux
The remains of a mountain fortress to learn about the violent history of this region.
Return to the Middle Ages.
More than 80 kilometres (48 miles) from Marseille), the 11th-century citadel of Les Baux rises imposingly at the summit of the Chaîne des Alpilles mountains, protected by the forests and the limestone rocks which over the centuries spawned bauxite mines. It represented the true old Provence, the Provence ruled by aristocrats remembered today by their castles and mansions, crenellated walls and defensive towers. Les Baux endured plenty of wars during its centuries of existence, and for that reason there's not all that much left to visit today beyond the ruins of its medieval splendour. But there is a chapel excavated in the rock, replicas of wooden siege engines, a couple of defensive towers, and a museum. The site remains evocative.
Allauch
Experience the culture, customs, and peoples of Provence.
Hidden between mountains.
Just 14 kilometres (8½ miles) from Marseille and with frequent train service, Allauch is an attractive place to go to learn about the traditions and customs of Provence. It's a picturesque town hidden between a pair of high hills in the Garlaban Massif, written about by the famous novelist and filmmaker Marcel Pagnol, who spent his childhood there. Among Allauch's touristic draws is the Esplanade of the Mills, with five 18th-century windmills which had to be moved when the Church of St. Sebastian was built and took away their wind (true story). Anyway... there at least a half-dozen other interesting spots to see locally, including the ruins of the chateau of Ners, and the religious art museum. In town, check out shops selling figurines and artisanal nougat typical of the region.
Cassis
If you have a little more time to spare, consider visiting a nearby village such as this and mix a bit with the locals.
A fishing village on the edge of the sea.
A half hour from Marseille, charismatic Cassis is the quintessential fishing village filled with postcardworthy vessels (known as pointus in the pointed local dialect). Here you'll find some of the best and freshest seafood on the Côte d'Azur, accompanied by crisp, locally produced white wine, and it's also a great place for a summer day at the beach and beach bars, returning to Marseille at sunset. For other outdoor activities, the coves of Cassis are famous for their crystaline waters loomed over by imposing limestone cliffs, which you can hop between by boat. There are also hiking routes into the local forests, and diving outfitters which will take you out to the best nearby offshore sites to experience some truly extraordinary submarine landscapes. Yes, you must see Cassis.
The Calanques
Whether viewed from land or sea, these rocky stretches of Mediterranean coastline are like nothing you've ever seen before - highly recommendable.
A little hiking amidst a very special rockscape.
The Calanques massif brings the city of Marseille to a mountainous end out along 20 kilometres (12 miles) of coast with lovely sea views, and makes a splendid outdoorsy day trip. At least four of those kilometres involve dramatically steep rocky escarpments beloved of hikers, nature lovers, and birders (other, more laid-back visitors might prefer to do their gawping by boat; excursions are available out of Port Vieux). If you're among the doughty who'd like to get out there amid the rocks, the least strenous route is the Calanque de Sugiton, reachable via Bus 21 on Rue Canebière and alighting at the final stop. Depending on the time of year, access may be restricted, so it is worth inquiring at the tourist office beforehand.
Frioul Archipelago
Cliffs, sea, and history out on a windblown archipelago off the coast of Marseille.
An island boat trip.
The story goes that the writer, pilot, and adventurer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, author of The Little Prince, died off the coast of Marseille, shot down by a Nazi plane during a 1944 reconnaissance flight for the free French forces. If the story is true, it would've happened near the Frioul Archipelago, a group of four islands (among them the isle of If, with its notorious castle-prison) covering a mere 200 hectares (494 acres), including limestone cliffs, semi-virgin beaches, and the occasional restaurant and beach bar in the port of Frioul, reachable via a short boat ride from Marseille. The islands' odd microclimate makes it a refuge for several specific bird and plant species that only exist among the rocks of this archipelago.
Sylvain Depuichaffray
Like sweets? You'll go crazy at this heavenly artisanal pastry shop.
For those with a sweet tooth!
Diabetics move on, please! But if you have a sweet tooth, the French have of course created an elaborate branch of their cuisine for the sugary side of things. And here in Marseille the discreet pâtisserie Sylvain Depuichaffray, on Rue Grignan on the way to Notre-Dame de la Garde, has become the local go-to spot for baked goods of all kinds, with its artisanal ovens ready to surprise with seasonal fruits and sweet sauces that never would've even occurred to you. Locals come first thing in the morning because they know that the later it gets the less of the good stuff is left. Biscuits with almond soup and nuts, panna cotta with cherries, creamy coconut with passionfruit and strawberries... the classic old favorites and imaginative new creations alike will blow you sweetly away.
O'Bidul
Small and surprising, with just two mains per night, and one employee.
Tiny spot, but big flavours.
The first thing that may take you aback about O'Bidul, located on Rue de la Palud, is that just one gentlemen waits on you - then goes back and cooks your dinner! The second is that there are only two menu choices - but oh, so well chosen according to the choicest and freshest possible produce of the season, and prepared with true love and enthusiasm. Fabrice Bazin's recipes mix home cooking with touches of signature cuisine for outstanding dishes such as a salad of watercress with Serrano ham, quail eggs, and pistachio oil or the tough choice between meat or fish: codfish with risotto or quail with vegetables. Desserts are always delicious, too. Dishes are elegantly simple, generous, perfectly executed, and very affordable. Marsellais already know this little spot; you should too (just book well ahead; being so tiny, it fills up fast!).
Grand Bar des Goudes
If you have a thing for seafood, you simply must make time for a meal at this restaurant near Marseille.
From sea to table.
Just a half hour from Marseille, as much for the quaintness of its streets and surroundings the fishing village of Les Goudes is worth a visit for the local gastronomy, based on the bounty freshly hauled from the sea. One of its top culinary offerings is the Gran Bar des Goudes on Avenue Derie Pellaprat (just head down to the fishing port and look for the tan-umbrella-shaded terrace overlooking the boats bobbing below, inviting you to come and stay for the sunset). Here you can enjoy a scrumptious typical Marseille bouillabaisse (fish stew), with up to six local species, served with grilled slices of bread. Grilled fish is another highly recommended house specialty.
Le Cigalon
In a small medieval town, what better than to let yourself go and taste the local gastronomy.
A unique restaurant for its views and its food.
If, between visits to the outskirts of Marseille, you have arrived at La Treille -the small medieval village on top of a mountain where the writer and filmmaker Marcel Pagnol spent his childhood- you will find a secluded restaurant in what could be considered the top of Marseille. The impressive views at Le Cigalon, located on Boulevard Pasteur, are matched only by the fame of its cuisine. Its specialties include the authentic recipe for trotters of lamb and a tripe package known as 'pieds et paquets', cooked in the 1896 style, the 'hare royale' and the 'alouettes sans tête', consisting of stewed meat rolls with fine herbs and whose recipe also dates back to the 19th century. Outside the menu, Le Cigalon also offers Provencal menus from 8 to 32 euros, accompanied by the best French wine.
Le Julien
Foie gras to go? That's what this restaurant is known for. But it also offers fine quality, value, and atmosphere.
A local foie gras star.
After a long day roaming around town who wouldn't appreciate a dining spot where quantity doesn't have to spar with quality on the plate and you always need to leave room for dessert. On Rue Paradis near the Vieux Port, Le Julien is that spot, a cozy, welcoming eatery whose homemade foie gras has become so locally famous it's even available as take-out. The restaurant also sells sommelier-curated cases of wine that make exquisitely sophisticated gifts (for others or yourself!). Besides that yummy foie gras and other tasty small plates, there's an extensive cheese menu, as well as Provençal and French classics such as sweetbreads with morel cream and sirloin steak with Roquefort sauce. Délicieux!
La Samaritaine
A classic stop in a classic part of town, it's a must stop during a day of touring.
A café with more than 150 years of history.
You'll easily recognise this institution in Marseille's Vieux Port with its collection of sidewalk tables that almost always seem full to bursting. The locals don't seem to mind that the service is, shall we say, somewhat leisurely, so don't let it faze you, either - just go armed with a spot of patience and enjoy the passing parade while waiting for the waiter. For this is a spot with more than a century and a half of history; the building dates from 1860 and the café from 1910 (it had to be rebuilt after German bombing during World War II). It's got a fairly typical brasserie menu, with a "menu of the day" for 11 euros.
Salah Thai
Asian cuisine has been becoming increasingly popular in France and if that piques your interest, this is an excellent local choice for Thai and Vietnamese at good prices.
How about something a little more exotique while you're in town?
French cuisine is exquisite, but if you're here for a while and would like to take a break with something a little more exotic, we're here to tell you that Salah Thai has a large repeat business, so reserving ahead is highly advisable. This Thai/Chinese/Vietnamese eatery on Boulevard Bara is especially worth a visit for its interesting, 13-euro Tuesday-through-Saturday lunch menu; otherwise, even its regular prices are quite reasonable, at 9 to 12 euros a dish, including the classic crispy noodles with shrimp, spring rolls in all their varieties, exotic papaya salads with a bit of spicy kick to them, coconut shrimp soup, lemongrass chicken, and various other Asiatic delicacies.
Miramar Restaurant
A glorious experience for all the senses, but not for all pocketbooks.
From the ocean's depths, an exquisite experience for those with deep pockets.
The ritual surrounding Marseille's authentic bouillabaisse (fish stew) already starts to tempt the stomach. First they bring you the slices of bread to annoint with aioli (a garlicky Provençal dressing similar to mayonnaise), which you then submerge in the plateful of fish. And voilà! A quintessential local experience in its purest form in one of the best places to experience it. Here at the Restaurant Miramar on Quai du Port, you should request a table on the terrace with views over the harbour (reservations are always advisable). Be advised that the quality of its ingredients and the complexity of its recipes doesn't come cheap; the average menu will run you around 60 euros per person, add wine to that and you could be seeing stars. But if you're up for a splurge, or your wallet is nice and deep, the word is there's no better bouillabaisse in Marseille.
La Passarelle
Dishes well prepared with natural ingredients, served in a picture-perfect secret garden for a picture-perfect evening.
Mediterranean cuisine, excellent quality and affordable.
You'll first recognise the magical little oasis that is La Passarelle, in the Rue du Plan Fourmiguier, by the exuberant vegetation surrounding its entrance - and that's just the beginning. Within you'll find yourself in a secret garden where warmly illuminated evening suppers become more than just a dining experience. Among the greenery surrounding you is the organic garden that supplies the kitchen - a fact that you'll no doubt note in the intensity of flavour on your plate. Focused above all on Mediterranean cuisine, La Passarelle offers not just the Marseille seafood classics, but also a larger menu of healthy fare prepared with meticulous attention to detail, such as the exotic flowers which adorn its desserts. Prices vary between 10 and 20 euros per dish - meaning the menu is fairly healthy for your wallet, too!
La Table du Fort
A restaurant that's quite exclusive yet not particularly expensive, to end a perfect day.
Excellent cuisine and service at affordable prices.
If you want to feel like a prince or princess for an evening, exquisitely attended to with a menu worthy of a royal repast, La Table du Fort has made itself famous for its personalised service and the care with which it prepares and serves each plate under its young owner-chef Nicholas Muller; in fact, it has earned itself a solid spot among the top tier of the city's gastronomic stars. Among its creative delacies you'll find "pork loin on a bed of peas and Brocciu cheese," "lamb with hummous, stuffed tomato, and carrots à l'orange," and "baked lobster over artichoke risotto." The wine list, meanwhile, is long, complex, and expertly chosen. And yet, for all of this quality, the prices here are astonishly affordable, with set menus from 35 to 50 euros per person. Located on Rue Fort Notre Dame, there's no terrace or sweeping views to speak of, but this restaurant is ample proof that a for a memorable, magical culinary evening, the food's the thing.
L'Epuisette
In addition to its exquisite cuisine, this restaurant will wow you with its views, making an evening here a memory of a lifetime.
An unforgettable dining experience.
Marseille's iconic restaurant for sunsets and special occasions is L'Epuisette, which is literally suspended above the sea in the port of Vallos des Auffes. The view; the décor; the presentation of the dishes, as if they were works of art; and above all the exquisite cuisine are guaranteed to make this one of your life's unforgettable dining experiences. We suggest allowing your waiters and sommellier to guide you, as they know the ins and outs of the seasonal menu (though of course one constant is its classic local bouillabaisse fish stew, which by the time you leave Marseille you'll end up either loving or hating!). Special mention goes to the desserts here, which leave the finickiest gourmets absolutely gobsmacked, always surprising the taste buds with their unusual flavours, textures, and other properties that explode or otherwise behave in your mouth in ways you'd never have imagined desserts could.
Yachting excursions
Budget permitting, of course - an afternoon aboard a yacht off the French Riviera is a special treat indeed.
A very special indulgence.
Yachting unfortunately isn't in everyone's reach, but for a very special splurge, or a romantic surprise sail for that special someone, here's one right out of the pages of a glossy luxury lifestyle magazine. In the port town of La Ciotat, 31 kilometres (19 miles) from Marseille, an outfit called Yachting Motors puts its sleek watercraft at your disposal for an afternoon, an evening, or longer on the high seas. There are two basic types of cruises - a faster, rush through the waves aboard the Opharia (800 euros for a half day) or more relaxed, sybaritic swanning about on the Cyos (700 to 1,500 euros), the latter of which is also set up for overnighting and equipped with a wet bar.
Marseille Le Grand Tour
If you don't have time, a highly recommended option is to take a tour on the city's tourist bus.
A quick walk through the city.
If you have little time to get to know Marseille and you can't wander around the city, a fun and comfortable option is the tourist bus that runs through every tourist corner and makes stops at the main monuments. Le Grand Tour de Marseille has a fleet of buses with two floors, the upper one open to the open air -so the same company recommends being careful with tree branches and traffic lights-, and audio guides in several languages that explain each monument . The tourist bus ride lasts an hour and a half, approximately, with tickets for 18 euros that allow you to get off and on the bus as many times as you want during a day. The first departure is at 10:00 in the Old Port and makes stops at 13 key points such as the Cathedral of the Major, Notre Dame de la Garde and Fort Saint-Nicolas, among others.
An underwater expedition
Are you a diver? How about discovering the submerged local treasures?
Exploring the depths of the Mediterranean.
There are at least a dozen wrecks off the coast of Marseille, with names like Liban, Drome, Chefchaouen, and Santo Domingo. The Goudes Dive & Leisure Centre, several kilometres from Pointe Rouge Beach, is the perfect place to launch such an adventure to explore them. The captain of the boat bringing you out to the wrecks will fill you in on their history and what you'll be seeing. Other local underwater adventures besides wreck dives are also available - and if diving isn't your thing at all, Goudes also offers other aquatic activities such as kayaking, surfing, and Jet Ski rentals.
A relaxing Port Vieux spa
A spa with wonderful sea views.
A soothing gift for your other half - and/or yourself!
After a day of tramping the city's pavements, it's safe to say anyone could use some serious relaxation. So if spa treatments, aromatherapy, and/or massage with a view of the marina sounds like just the ticket - either for yourself or perhaps a romantic surprise for your other half, consider the So-Spa at the local Hotel Sofitel. It's an impressive menu indeed, with elements including algae exfoliation, aqua circuit, chromotherapy, steam and dry sauna, amid a striking, very Zen decor in white and mother of pearl. And all with those inspiring views of the sea and the port.
The local wine route
If you have the time and interest, a day of local vineyard touring and winetasting is a pleasure indeed.
A pleasure for lovers of the grape.
Gourmets and lovers of fine French wine will appreciate the opportunity while in Marseille to visit the very characteristic local vineyards of the Côte d'Azur and Provence. There are scores of local outfits that will bring you to the main vineyards to discover their secrets. If your time is limited, we'd suggest a day trip to Cassis and Bandol, which specialise in whites and reds, respectively. But if you have the time and the desire to delve more deeply into the region, there are tour packages which also include visits to local craft markets, cheesemaking, perfume making with locally produced lavender, and even a spa visit. You can choose your preferences and they'll set it all up for you.
How about a ride in an old Citroën 2CV?
A fun and unusual way of seeing the city: with guide in an antique Citroën 2CV car.
Touring in an antique auto, anyone?
Film buffs and James Bond fans will surely remember a hair-raising scene in For Your Eyes Only in which Roger Moore barrelled through Marseille in a Citroën. Of course, it's not legal to do the same, but you can feel a little like a movie star for a day as well as experience the mythical French antique from the 1970s at the side of a local guide who will chauffeur you to both the best known spots in and near the city (such as the coastal road outside town), as well as some of the more out of the way; the tour operator, Marseille in 2CV, can also custom tailor tours.
Prado Beach
For a fun day outside with the kids, put this beach on your list of musts.
A beach park with a lot of activities.
If you're traveling with little ones or you like to surf (or just splash around in) the waves yourself, you'll find a full menu of options at the the Prado Beach Park, a man-made strand created in the 1970s with the idea of taking advantage of the mistral wind which buffets the coast. This of course makes it a key local surf spot, so you can rent a wetsuit and a board and catch some waves, or just take advantage of the hammocks, beach bars, water toys, Jet Skis, and so forth. Weather permitting, at night you can also hang out for open-air concerts. Keep in mind that this is a stony beach, so if you're looking for something a little sandier, you might want to head to Pointe Rouge, also near Marseille and especially popular among families with small children.
An electric bike ride
Enjoy guided touring on two wheels of the city's highlights.
Another way of touring the town.
Admit it: even if you think you'd kind of like the idea of touring Marseille by bicycle, all that pedaling and pumping just doesn't appeal to you. No worries, because there are local outfits dedicated to sustainable tourism and street-level accessibility while covering a good deal of ground with electric bicycles, and also offering the possibility of attaching child seats to allow for some very pleasant family touring. Tours leave from the Vieux Port, accompanied by local guides who will point out landmarks and explain interesting facts along the way. Itineraries of either two or four hours are options, covering a visit to the Palais du Pharo and the coastal route through the fishing villages, many with stops to gaze at the scenery, take photos, and enjoy the local food and wine.
Marseille National Theatre - La Criée
In an area with lots to see and do, we'd recommend checking the listings here to not miss something special.
Once a marketplace, now the national theatre.
The imposing iron and glass façade of La Criée ("the Auction House") harbours the old interior of the 1909 fish market, and is now also home to the National Theatre of Marseille, which if you're culturally minded can be a marvelous option while visiting this city. La Criée offers a wide variety of ballet, concerts, plays, world music festivals, contemporary dance, children's theatre, and more - we'd suggest you consult its website the moment you know the dates of your stay if you want to make sure you secure tickets. The theatre is quite close to the Vieux Port, in the Rue Rive Neuve, surrounded by restaurants and cafés offering all manner of excellent post-theatre dinner options.
Marseille Cathedral
With a very marked style and architecture, it's one visit you should definitely make time for. And if you can make it here in August, even better!
A unique church you shouldn't miss.
The Sainte-Marie-Majeure Cathedral is eye-catching thanks to Léon Vaudoyer's eclectic neo-Romanesque/Byzantine architecture, dating from the mid-19th century, and striated marble façade similar to Notre Dame de la Garde, creating an exotic flavour with its arches and mosaics. In addition, the grandiose dimensions of this cathedral, built on the remains of an older Sainte-Marie-Majeure, bring to mind St. Peter's in Rome. The highlight of the year comes in mid-August when processions and offerings, in traditions influenced by Italian sailors, are conducted in honor of the cathedral's namesake Virgin Mary - spectacular and unforgettable!
The Castle of If
A fortification in Marseille Bay visitable by boat.
The prison of the Count of Montecristo.
Out in the Bay of Marseille you'll find another of this city's notorious fortifications, the castle-prison of If, built on the isle of the same name. It was commissioned by King François I in 1527 with the supposed intention of protecting the city against sea attack. But the truth is that the indomitable Marsellais were simply not good at taking orders and so the monarchy felt the need to keep them in line with cannons aimed at the seafront promenade and buildings. This castle is also famous for harbouring the prison which supposedly held prisoner Edmond Dantés, the Count of Montecristo, a character invented by the 19th-century novelist Alexandre Dumas. If you'd like to visit this isle, a boat service departs from the Vieux Port daily.
Marseille City Hall
An impressive 17th-century building which today houses the city government.
A must-see in the port area.
The Marseille city hall is another historic site which reflects the legacy of Louis XIV and the rigidity of that era's class system. This elaborate Baroque confection was built on the site of a 14th-century city hall which housed diplomatic and trade commissions and tradesmen (merchants on the ground floor, diplomats above, of course). The city hall was named the Peuget Pavillion in honor of architect Pierre Peuget, who renovated the palace in the sixteenth century, drawing on his knowledge of the luxurious villas of Paris and Genova. In the following centuries, the city hall was enlarged to host the municipal government.
Le Bateau Ivre
An interesting statue by the sea, worth seeking out.
The work of scultpor Jean Amado.
Should your local perambulations take you to the Prado Beach, you'll find acres of parkland, sports fields, and playgrounds which make for lovely family outings. And here, too, you'll find one of the works of the French sculptor Jean Amado, who lived and worked in Marseilles during the 1950s. Le Bâteau Ivre ("The Drunken Boat") is an homage to the tormented poet Arthur Rimbaud and his poem of the same name. Amado's sculpture appears to spring from the earth, with bas reliefs and layers evoking his potter's background. The final product is a monument which can by turns resemble a ship or some kind of mini mountain range, with vertical peaks rising above the sea.
Fortress of St. Nicholas
With the turbulent French history, you'll find places to look back, such as this fortress.
Remains of a mighty citadel.
Behind the Abbey of St. Victor where the port begins, you'll find another relic of the confrontation between the monarchy of Louis XIV and the revolutionary public of Marseille, particularly the antimonarchists of the Fronde. When the king ordered the city retaken, its medieval walls razed, and this citadel of St. Nicholas constructed in 1664 with its cannons pointing inward toward the city, he could not have imagined that this would be the first royal fortress to burn in vengeance - and nearly destroyed - during the French Revolution more than a century later (it was only an order by the National Assembly that prevented the demolition of the fortress). Today the Fortress of St. Nicholas, divided between the upper fort and the lower fort, stands guard over the entrance to the port; back in the day, the premises also included a medieval chapel, but of that nothing remains.
Abbey of St. Victor
A must-visit for history buffs - and even more so if it's in February.
A place with a dark legend.
Named for the Catholic martyr St. Victor of Marseille, who according to legend was a Roman army officer tortured and crushed under a millstone for renouncing the gods of Rome. His purported tomb lies in a crypt in the 5th-century church here, where various other early Christian sarcophagi can be found thanks to its erection on the site of an ancient settlement from that period. And if you visit in early February, you'll be able to witness the splendid high point of the year here, with a mass procession bearing the abbey's famous Black Virgin from the Vieux Port back to its home.
Palais Longchamp
An elaborate monument commemorating the completion of an important canal, critical to the life of the city.
A celebration of water.
Marseille is on the sea, but drought as well as epidemics devastated the city in the 19th century, prompting a complex engineering feat which after more than 15 years of construction finally brought water to the city from the Durance River in the Alps via an 80-kilometre canal as well as 18 aqueducts and various underground conduits. The Palais Longchamps took even longer to complete - 30 years - and was inaugurated in 1869, embellished with sculptures of allegories to life and fetility, and its central fountain known as the Château d'Eau. The Palais and its vicinity are a cultural nucleus, including museums of the fine arts and natural history, as well as the botanical gardens, zoo, and even an astronomical observatory which still plays a role in scientific analysis as well as opens its doors to the public.
Fort Saint Jean
At times, the enemy is very close at hand - or so thought King Louis XIV when he had this fortress built.
A threat to the people.
The most disturbing thing about Fort Saint Jean is that its cannons point toward the city and not out to sea - because this was not a fortification designed to protect against external enemies but against King Louis XIV's own subjects. The king ordered its construction in 1660 as a warning to rebellious Marsellais who were agitating against the local governnment. Not that it ultimately did much good - this fort was overrun by revolutionary mobs in 1790, and later after the fall of Robespierre, Jacobin heads rolled in its courtyards. After so many bloody and militaristic centuries, since 2013 St. Jean is connected via air corridor with the exposition complex of the new Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, the first French national museum outside of Paris. A truly must-visit.
Porte d'Aix
It may look Roman, but it's an all-French celebration of the country's military might.
Marseille's Arc de Triomphe.
Another of Marseilles' iconic landmarks, the Porte d'Aix marks one of the old entrances to the city from the road to Aix-en-Provence, and was inspired by the likes of triumphal arches of Roman emperors Trajan and Titus. It was conceived in 1784 "for the glory of King Louis XIV," who was having problems with internal rebellions and wanted to play up his political achievements, but did not actually start construction until 1823, under the direction of architect Michel-Robert Penchaud, and when after further delay it was finally finished more than a decade later, it was dedicated not to any individual but to the victories of France in general. Today, in spite of subsequent restaurations, you'll notice that the stone has suffered a certain amount of time-induced erosion.
Vieux Port (The Old Port)
Watch the comings and goings, the loadings and unloadings, and you'll get some idea of the importance of this small port to Marseille over its history.
A place where time stands still.
The origin of Marseille's Vieux Port goes back to ancient Greece, when Hellenic adventurers seeking to invade Gaul would shelter their barges in this cove - and indeed, the port's shipyards are historic monuments considered city icons. Although nowadays most of the maritime action (such as a brisk business as a port of call on the Mediterranean cruise ship circuit) has shifted to the new port on the outskirts of the city, here you can still experience an atmospheric mix of both traditional fishing boats and fancy yachts, surrounded by the glamour of a luxury marina. For another take on this part of town (if you don't have a yacht of your own), check it out from the world's shortest cruise line (675 feet), the local ferry, operating since 1880.
Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica
An impressive, softly-hued structure, very reflective of the city and the sea.
The seamen's basilica.
Reachable via a nice little ride in an antique funicular, the basilica dubbed the Bonne Mére ("Good Mother") is known as the protector of sailors. It was built on a hill below the Vieux Port (Old Port) in neo-Romanesque/Byzantine style in 1864 atop the ruins of a 17th-century fortress that had served to protect against attacks from the sea. Its façade is distinguished by the striking contrast between white marble and green limestone, and crowning the tower in front is a 36-foot statue of the Virgin Mary as guardian of the seas, covered in gold leaf and with her fishermen devotees at her feet.
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